Safari Day 13: Getting a whiff of the king of the beasts

Kasane to Chobe (Chobe National Park, Botswana)

Up close and personal

The alarm was persistent at 6:15 and walls seem to be paper thin here so we can hear alarms, movement, showers and toilets and even overnight snorers, so there is no avoiding parting the mosquito nets and just getting up.

Today is handover time - we needed to have our "bush" bags out and ready for collection because they would be taken in the support vehicle and leave our main luggage with @Louis who would meet us at Maun.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS:

A. Fond farewells from @Louis (he is in charge of our luggage and for finding a transport solution) as we boarded and joined @Shimmy in the open safari vehicle for our 60 km per hour cruise to the gates of the park. The plan today was to make our way slowly through the park, on he sandy tracks, varying our speed from stationery to 15 kph to arrive in camp on noon just in time for lunch.

No fence around the area as it blocks the movement of animals - and we I nvited to play the spot the animal "game" today trying to find animals - @Shimmy indicated we'd see lots if we were lucky - and lucky we were.

Great vantage points from every seat in the vehicle (so much room, very comfortable and the rotation continues)  to see just need to be alert and @Shimmy invited everyone to get him to stop if they spotted anything that was of interest to them - but must comment that in this first few kms it was like being on the M1. There were so many vehicles crowding in for a view of whatever was on offer. It was worth noting though, that the early morning viewers travelling in the opposite direction on their way home from their "game" were all smiles. 

Rugged up and ready for our game.

@Shimmy kept sidling the vehicle up beside passing guides and getting the heads up on what had been spotted and where. All very co-operative.

He offered a "bushie, bushie"  but we all held out until we pulled up at a formal rest stop and with our loose gear safe from the monkeys, lined up for a turn at the waterless, and paperless version of a "flushing" toilet. Just glad to go really.

Literally tracked the lions from footprints in sand. @Shimmy noticed a giraffe in the distance that was on full alert and in the blink of an eye, the giraffe bolted. @Shimmywasn't too far behind the giraffe, he put the foot down on the pedal and there were the two lions walking to the riverside and setting themselves up for a leisurely drink. No hurry for them - they are the king of the beasts and no predators bother them.

A moment indelibly etched

We were so close. We could not only hear them passing wind but we could smell it! It was high. How many people get to say they have had that experience - believe me, it was not the sweet smell of popcorn that @Louis said we would experience with a close encounter with the leopard.

When they had finished the huge gulps of water, they stood and walked casually to our OPEN safari vehicle - they were a mere four lion's paces away. @Steve and I were the closest offerings and I have to admit I was holding my breath and remained dead still. @Mac captured my response on video - and the sound file - although a whispered expletive - would need to be edited in order to publish it. Felt we had a "moment" of eye to eye contact and just as quickly, they  casually strolled by and drew up some sand and collapsed under the shade of a tree. They sleep 20 out of 24 hours in a day and after that close encounter we were grateful they were in sleep mode and not hunting mode.

And that was our welcome to the Botswana camping safari.

This vehicle gets us so close - perfect viewing for everyone

This little introduction also included an impala carcass suspended from the fork of a tree, up close and personal encounters with giraffe and elephants - like REALLY close to the vehicle, sightings of herds of buffalo and impala moving across the plain towards the river, wallowing hippos and mischievous monkeys and baboons. Animals EVERYWHERE.

That's an impala - storage for the leopard "later"

We did get an incredible surprise when we pulled into tonight's camp. @Joseph (the chef) and @OT the camp set-up person had created an oasis for us in the dust. Our tents were erected in a close semi-circle, the toilet and shower set up for shared use, the fire blazing, lanterns set at intervals to ring the camp all with a perfect backdrop of the bush. Definitely not fenced in anyway. We might be receiving VIP visitors later in the evening.

Camp is ready with all the trimmings - and so was lunch

Had a short time to sort the tents - claim our standup dome tent and get our gear organised and then lasagne and salad in our very own version of an outdoor long table lunch to give us the strength to head out again.

The afternoon game drive left camp at 3 pm and we were able to slip into the parade of animals heading to the river. This was animal spotting on steroids. No need to "look" for anything - they are just there - more a case of getting your eye in and then trying to determine what you were seeing. We weren't alone in the viewing - there were lots of other vehicles out and a "congregation" in one spot was a definite indicator that something was afoot.

So much to see

More lions, herds of elephant and buffalo - on the horizon, right next to us and all eventually silhouetted against an African sky that shot colours in every direction. Hard to believe we are here doing this stuff.

The herds moving to and from water

It was a race back to camp for the 6:30 deadline of the park curfew and The Crew happily drew around the fire to toast our good fortune and then moved to the table to make more room for more food. It is amazing the appetite that is generated with the excitement of the drive, the crispness of the outdoors and the taste and smell if the open fire cooking. Hope the other carnivores in the area are doing as well.

Always a table cloth - that's Africa

Laughed our way through the adventures of the day by the embers of the camp fire. @Shimmy calls this relaxing in the comfort of our own outdoor TV room.

Watching TV - a different kind of SKY news After Dark for @Mac

With headlamps firmly in place (what a great idea they are) abandoned normal night time routines and selected baby wipes for all the essential bits, a dip in the outdoor wash basin, a trip or two to the loo with a view, teeth at the back of the tent, batteries hooked up for sleeping essentials and by 9:10 all the zips were in place and we were happily, wearily and comfortably cocooned in our

Accommodation:Mobile tented camp Chobe National Park

Can stand up, side table a bonus and beds are so comfortable

Transport:  OPEN safari vehicle

Wildlife Spotting:

Red billed oxpecker - bush doctor - cleanse wounds, perch on side of mouth to drink (for protection from predators) sharp beak removes scab

LIONS - I can't recall a single word

 Hippos. Poachers not really interested. Hippos seeking protection from the sun in the water - different from other animals - milk like cream cheese 

Water buck

Impala - browsers like to drink on afternoon, browsing in day causes acid in stomach, need salt to nutralise - big herd - leopards kill suspended in tree (saving for later) - down to drink - Mating has started - strongest male runs up and down the herd - bachelor males breed and build up strength- after a few days male has lost strength and new male moves in

Kudu - enormous horns 

Elephant: mother elephant trying to support baby for the swim; drowns holding onto mothers tail

Red billed franklin- running on road

Spoonbill - very white, noisy, competing for food

Buffalo males have helmet - fused in middle - males thick helmet to protect brains - grazers ... but in dry season browser - trees contain acid o false charge - angry temperament - old Buffalo losing hair as it ages - choose to be alone and uses mud to protect him - if he is no longer strong, buffalo retreats from group

Hippo - asleep on banks: male emerge from shallows, marked territory as he walked; can fight till the death; very aggressive

Geese

Bee eaters- striking green and yellow

Drongo

Crocodile: muscles very thin in Mouth of croc - baking on bank- mouth open to cool down - all sizes - mother leaves baby after 4 days - 15% survive. Other crics feed in babies - fish Eagles

Guinea fowl

Giraffe: darker colour older - males no sound - males keep distance - sound of fighting heard - thumps - smal lnumbers heavily protected. Small numbers ... very vulnerable to lion attack while drinking

Black back jackal - member of fox family

Warthog - eating on knees, diggng with nose, 

Guinea fowl

Elephants: have memory about where danger is - can find safe area - move to safe ce trak area, females need to be close to water, 50 k.s a day can walk , walk on single file when just moving, matriarch decision maker by age, Oval is hind leg, 70% if weight is in front of body -Elephants eyes don't shine at night - Organised by same blood line - family stays together under female: Elephants body structure, big ears for cooling, use nose for hand, if short mouth us exposed

Zebra

Giraffe -sovereign - walks like a camel, runs like a horse - mating- coming down for drink

Roller

Baboon - large troop - very strong bond , carry for 4 

Google Maps Day 13 Thebe to Mobile Camp - mystery location🙈🙉🙊

Safari Day 12: Two pairs of shoes and the border crossing into Botswana was a breeze!

Victoria Falls to Kasane (Botswana)

These two frolicking males were hilarious!

Love a leisurely start to a day - especially when they are combined with hot showers, electricity and wi-fi. We had 4 stay at homes this morning - @Marg and @Del were off to experience the elephant encounterand @Gill and @Roz enjoyed a fruitful trip to the markets. Everyone else was chilling out and enjoying the luxury of Victoria Falls before we headed into Botswana. 

Got our breakfast heads-up with @Louis just to ground us in the reality of going bush in the upcoming days. Botswana - the last wilderness frontier of Africa - is @Louis's number two of favourite places in Africa - 70% is protected wilderness (ask me in few days.)

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS:

The first part of the day saw us separated and doing our own thing. But it was a regroup at our new favourite cafe in Victoria Falls and it was straight into the coffee again and a sharing of early monring stories.

Favourite cafe and shot from a few years ago - elephant in main street!

@Gill's mystery of the shoes was a good story to start the day and we will never know the reality of it. 

We are all carrying our extra shoes today as carry on because we need to have them treated at the border transfer to Botswana. During @Gill's shopping adventure, the new purchases were squeezed in on top and the backpack was zipped up. About 3 minutes later a taxi driver was chasing her up the road waving a pair of shoes at her. @Gill had a whole back story running through her mind "Why does he think I need shoes" followed by "I've got a pair just like that." When she finally tuned into the present, the realisation came to her "They are my shoes. " Followed by "He's stolen my shoes and is returning them because they don't fit." Never crossed her mind that he may have been a good Samaritan rather than a villain.  Got good mileage out of this story all day and @Gill is still convinced he was some nefarious mastermind behind a clandestine shoe stealing scheme.

Shared in the retell from the Elephant Encounter from @Marg and @Dell - 5 elephants, 4 guests and 4 handlers. Gosh they were up close and personal in this 2 hour meet up. Walked with the elephants, heard their stories, fed them, accompanied them to the water hole. All at leisurely pace. Now that was something to remember, especially if you are an elephant fan like @Marg.

All back together again for our scheduled meetup in the Marula Cafe with time for extra large cappuccino with its accompanying shot of Amarula. For the coffee drinkers - and drinkers - a perfect followup to breakfast.

A. All aboard at 11.30 for the relocation into Botswana in a vehicle even more comfortable than the last. Our destination today was the Chobe River, which has its source in Angola. We are now ramping up the adventure to a whole new level for us - not really super-dooper camping enthusiasts - still rating ourselves as virgins and novices in this category.

First step was to get across the border - and what a different experience that was! No line ups, no hassled guards with just one ipad - just a matter of washing the soles of your shoes that you declare are your only shoes (and car tyres) in a provided solution and then a stamp from the Immigration official. We were in and out in a flash.

@Louis kept up the commentary as @Innocent handled the driving and we were even more comfortable in this van than the last one. Roads were no better though, still a mishmash of pavement, dirt, sand and potholes. 

Traversing this edge of the Kalahari where water is so very precious, we hear of some of the history of the Bantu, bushmen and the Tswana (?); the impact of the discovery of diamonds; the government's support of education and the 98% literacy rate; the crisis associated with the devastating impact of HIV on 48% of population. Heard the story of the first president who married across the colour lines and was arrested and took a look at the symbolism of the blue Botswana flag with its distinctive merged black and white Y. Also tantalised by the beauty and size of the Okavango Delta which will be visited in the next segment of our itinerary. 

@Louis kept the engagement for the group going by expanding on the importance of this last true wilderness of Arica. Tourism and wildlife are so important to the livelihood of the people. A government initiative enables farmers to make a claim for livestock that is lost to wild animals. The government doesn't want the farmers to hunt and kill the native animals that are the drawcard for tourists. Seems to be some sort of success here - although the wild dogs are still in direct competition with the farmers and packs are vulnerable.

The Chobe River is a significant migration corridor and there is lots of movement through towns and farms as the animals follow the water throughout the seasons. Research into these migration patterns has revealed that the Chobe hosts the second largest migration of zebra and wildebeest in Africa. So we were primed to see more wildlife.

Kasane is definitely a "border" town - just across the river is Namibia and it is perched on the banks of the Chobe River which joins the mighty Zambezi and heads on down to the falls. 

Check-in at the Thebe was literally a drop and run because we had an afternoon river cruise with our new "camp" guide.

Meet @Shimmy

B. The Chobe River Cruise involved a short drive to our private vessel so that we could cruise the river as the sun set and the local wildlife was drawn to the water for their afternoon refill. @Louis introduced our new Botswanan guide @Shimmy who immediately came across as professional and relaxed. He took over the helm of the boat and while providing commentary presented us with a sweeping panorama of elephant herds, hippos, crocs, wildebeest and an endless parade of birds. We circled the low grassy islands, including No-man's Land which separates Botswana and Namibia and motored along the wooded shorelines where the herds of animals began their afternoon rituals.

 an introduction to the Chobe

In the Kruger game drives we were working hard to spot the wildlife. Here on the Chobe, it is a sit back and relax sort of experience as the animals go about their daily lives - and they do it in numbers. It is hard to know where to look.

But for the crew today - I think the highlight was the elephants. There were there in numbers. And they put on a show right in front of our boat as they swam across the river to the reedy islands. Who even knew that elephants were swimmers! They used their trunks as their personal snorkel and looked as if they were doing an elephant kind of breaststroke. 

Up periscope

It was definitely an up close and personal day for @Del and @Marg and we got to share in it as well. The crazy antics of the two teenage males as they playfully tumbled over each other in the water had us spellbound for far too long. 

Nope, you are not seeing things. "I can't compete with that," quipped @Tom 

So very close

Of course, the sunset was compelling viewing as the sky changed colour and the sun did its dive into the horizon. 

Racing the sunset home.

C. Dinner had us gathered in the Lodge restaurant, making choices from a menu, trying the local St Louis beer and generally putting on a brave front, trying to balance our uncertainties against the possible danger scenarios that @Louis throws at us so that we are prepared for the reality of the conditions ahead.

Bring your own light - dress rehearsal for camps

We were briefed on the luggage situation for the next few days. Two small bags - one to carry our change of clothes for the 4 days in camp and one for our personal items to take with us on each game drive. Suggestion was to keep it simple - maybe two changes of outer clothing (the one we wear and one other) and 4 sets of undies, a towel, soap and deodorant and any medication. Plus your winter coverups for the early morning and late evenings. It was bare bones packing. GLad we had our little travel bag we had bought earlier in Botswana for the grand total of $4.50.

Hit the hay with no idea really of what the next few days should bring. Only know that we are travelling very light with 5 sets of undies and two changes of clothing, a cake of soap, two sticks of deodorant, a stash of wipes, a CPAP machine, medication, torches, warm gear, wine/rum and #Sheweena. No real worries because the crew has a collective mindset of "we can do this together." Bring it on.

PS: Still no word on the solution for a replacement for #Magogo but with 4 days of our absence no doubt it will be sorted.

Accommodation:Thebe River Lodge - another venue where we are all together in a courtyard configuration with common seating areas outside for catchups. Large bedroom, nets on the beds and fabulous bathroom for long showers pre "going bush." Situated across the road from the prison - not to worry, most criminals in Botswana are wildlife criminals.

Wildlife Spotting

Baboon - crossing road - sliding down the roof on their bottom on the hot tin roof, swinging from the trees, waiting patiently for a break in the traffic; peering in shop fronts; all with the locals just going about their business

Kudu - females, quite large

Elephants - big herd, noted ears flapping to cool down and congregation under tree for shade - always cleaning food to protect teeth - 6 sets - don't chew - grind food - avoid destroying teeth - 60-65 years

Swamp boubou- black and white bird 

Brown hooded kingfisher

Kudu: can jump 3 metres high - and 6 metres long - we would like to see that!

Egret

Bufalo

White faced whistling duck

African ebony - seeds in poops of jackals- Jackal berry

Suicidal kingfisher

Lilac breasted roller

African darter - snake bird - neck amd beak stick out - body underwater

African Harrier Hawk -Gymnogene - pluck bird out of nest - Nest of bee eaters and kingfisher

Go away bird - animals be alert - alarm call

Bush chicken- Guinea fowl

Egyptian goose

Crocodile - thermo regulation re - charging solar system - scale like solar panel and retain heat - heat of sun is catalyst for digestion - teeth ... incisor teeth .. muscle called gullet flap - feed on big chunks of meat - takes time to digest- fewer meals - do t need a such food as other animals- come out early in mor o g - just sit-down to use energy - only creature with ability to drop heartbeat to 14 ... long time under water for long periods of times- unique eyes - has sunglasses for sun - 3 eyelids - last remai s of dinosaur - 130 years- leopard tortoise 150

Google Maps Day 12 Victoria Falls to Kasane

Safari Day 11: On them, over them and around them - glad we didn't go under them!

Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe)

A busy schedule was planned for the day. We're and going around the Falls, over them and on them! Got all angles covered.

Exhilarating mist of Victoria Falls

Dealt with the basics first by itemising and filling the laundry bags. Chewed down on breakfast overlooking the pool and in #Magogo's absence, loaded into the taxis at 8.30 for transport to Victoria Falls.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS

A. An easy drive - probably 5 minutes and alighted in the marketplace to access the entrance to the Falls. Plenty of raincoats on offer to keep the water at bay but a line up to get in because there was no staff member to take money. We were at the head of the queue and it was time to inravel our $1 junk shop ponchos that @Jude had recommended we pack.

The crew, ready for the out and back loop

This was an out and back trail, well signposted, with regular vantage points to take in the majesty and the sheer power of the Falls. So much water and the mist and spray from the largest curtain of water in the world actually creates its own microclimate and in particular segments  supports a rainforest.

Feel the power!

We had skipped the Zimbabwean guide and opted to tap into @Louis expertise. Was hoping we could keep up with him as he'd already been for a morning run and dived into the freezing pool for a cool down. He did say it was warmer this morning than last night's dip.

Definitely the right call because for the next 2 hours @Louis stepped us along with his endless knowledge and enthusiasm. Started by removing his hat at the base of the imposing statue of David Livingston and piquing our curiosity of this explorer's journeys. Another research project and biography reading when I get home. Reeled off the stats on the Falls, identified the plants, told stories and kept us bubbling along.

@Louis and his guide hero

There's really no better way to experience this. It was a curtain of white power. Relentless surging, broiling, swirling and thundering water. As the mist rose in the air, the wind would catch it and sheets of water eddied and swirled and poured over you in waves.

I've just deleted dozens of random facts that I collected on the walk - but the most important take away here is that the might and power of Victoria Falls is something that must be experienced first hand.

Thoroughly enjoyed all the vantage points of The Falls.

B. Back in the taxis (we need to take 2 to accommodate the crew) its back up the hill to Amadeus to meet up with our Wild Horizons bus for transport to the helipad. We've walked it - now time to fly over it. Unfortunately, we missed our booking time! Quite relieved that their team were generous enough to reschedule us in their lunch break.

All aboard the bus and back to town and set up in Marula Cafe in a perfect town life vantage point Discovered their take on a cappuccino- which included a shot (how do you get that last drop of Amarula out of the shot glass - lick it of course.) Threw in a fast zip around the shops and markets (don't buy in the big smoke - my $10 item at Matopos was $35 here.)

Doing it right, having it all.

And then #take2 - definitely not late this time. Safety briefing, weigh in (Oh dear, blaming the extra layers, the boots and the handbag) and before we were even thinking about it, we were buckled in and headset hooked in, enclosed in a bubble and were off for our own flight of angels.

The weigh in was scarier than the flight 

@Mac took in the 13 minute flight in the smaller chopper with @Gill and @Roz and I joined the NZ foursome and @Louis and squeezed up against the brave but unsure @Del. So glad she was up there snatching furtive views of the unfolding grandeur of the Falls from above.

Thumbs up, sick bags and fears conquered

The Falls from above

C. Lots of recaps and chatter and before we knew it we had regrouped, rugged up and lathered up with the insect repellent, ready for the coach pickup for the sunset cruise on the Zambezi. It is affectionately known as "the booze cruise." A double decker vessel, set up with tables and chairs for viewing offered with finger food and bottomless drinks. That red rock that tumbles to the horizon so quickly is the number 1 draw card - but Captain Romeo found us wallowing hippos as a secondary treat.

I took 374 photos accompanied by a coke - not sure @Mac had the same count on either his photos or his coke+rum count. I am tempted however, to say that @Marg was the over achiever on the photo count - she had 2 lenses fired up and was glued to her view finder. @Tom has become the unofficial master of the video and the panoramic shots. They are glorious.

Lucky I was able to cull that photo count!

Have to share that we did offer a little prayer of thanks to start the cruise. @Louis is reliably meticulous every time we leave a vehicle or venue. "Please check. Have you got all your belongings? Bags, phone, passport, money." And dutifully we all pat, unzip, rezip and check." And yes - invariably there's a scurry and a flurry accompanied by a racing heart -  I lost my phone in Gwango had everyone looking and it was in my back pocket, @Mac had down a pat down and his phone was missing from his pocket - it had slipped out of one of the rough safari drives -  @Gill had similar with hers eventually located in her side pocket, @Del left her handbag on a chair at dinner - @Tom was even momentarily separated from his phone when it slipped behind the seats in the back of the mini bus  ... so we know it happens and appreciate the reminder.

Up until tonight, @Louis hadn't lost anything (except maybe his sanity keeping us all on track,) But he did get a turn tonight. Left his phone on the bus. Now that was a potential catastrophe because it had all the details and contacts for the trip. Thank goodness for the integrity of the bus driver. He spotted it right on the seat and took the time to return it to the boat - lucky @Louis - lucky us.

So that was our 360 of Victoria Falls - and every view was spectacular.

D. Rounded out the night with a good dinner experience (with 200 other guests) at the Chief's Boma. OMG, a carnivore's delight. Wall to wall meat (complete with a splayed pig on a spit), buffet salads, soups, veggies and dessert in a massive venue with plenty of artwork and artefacts, music and dancing AND mopane worms.

Pre-show warmups before the worms. @Steve's face was priceless but he got there in the end.

Think Outback Spectacular" - but the African version. When you arrive you are presented with a cloth sari and a daubed tattoo of face paint as a welcome which is tied over your clothing (maybe a smarter way of putting a bib on you for dinner.) @Roz and @Del were right into it and jumped on in to dance with the welcoming band! Looked good - think they had been waiting for just the right moment to bust out a move.

Once inside it's all action - including tasting the African delicacy the mopane worm. If you chow down you even get a certificate.

Who could resist? Not us. Buoyed on by the guy in front of us who asked for a second one - we had a go. It was chewy but really quite tasteless. Think it was more mind over matter. @Steve was priceless. Got there in the end - but his face contorted into a whole new recorr number of "this is disgusting" poses. Made for great photos.

We grazed and browsed and sampled as much as we could thinking that a 2 hour walk from early in the day would compensate for overeating - while completely ignoring the earlier shock of the helicopter weigh in.

Took advantage of the wandering face painter and you were invited to nominate your favourite animal for a face decoration. Plenty of choices from the animal kingdom but @Steve was steadfastly loyal to #Magogo and the brand - and opted instead for the Toyota symbol! This was a really clever little add on earn - the gentleman was so fast transferring the paint from the pallet and everyone at our table - and most others - was interested.

Monkey business for @Mac and @Steve stole the show ... again ...

More action followed dinner with the interactive drum show. All audience members were issued a drum, and led ny the musicality of our very own members of t h e award winning Christchurch City Choir members @Marg and @Del we smashed and bashed out rhythms for the next 30 minutes. Loads of fun. And I'm sure our group won the audience drum-off challenge.

Homeward bound and dizzy from meat, alcohol amd a good time it was home to clean laundry and another round of packing. I really wanted to keep my wild dog tattoo on my face, but the steam of the shower melted it into a black running mess. Is it possible that I am a tattoo convert?

 Love these two day stays and have a promise of a sleep in tomorrow.

Accommodation 

Steps: 17. 835


Wildlife spotting

Declared today a non recording day of the plants and animals that @Louis shared - we were on the run and I was in the moment

Hippos: walk on sand banks, spurting water, keep sand churned up. Underwater  baby 45 seconds adult 6 minutes - can't swim - very, very dangerous - tusks forward and back on lower jaw - 2000 deaths per year