Safari Day 11: On them, over them and around them - glad we didn't go under them!

Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe)

A busy schedule was planned for the day. We're and going around the Falls, over them and on them! Got all angles covered.

Exhilarating mist of Victoria Falls

Dealt with the basics first by itemising and filling the laundry bags. Chewed down on breakfast overlooking the pool and in #Magogo's absence, loaded into the taxis at 8.30 for transport to Victoria Falls.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS

A. An easy drive - probably 5 minutes and alighted in the marketplace to access the entrance to the Falls. Plenty of raincoats on offer to keep the water at bay but a line up to get in because there was no staff member to take money. We were at the head of the queue and it was time to inravel our $1 junk shop ponchos that @Jude had recommended we pack.

The crew, ready for the out and back loop

This was an out and back trail, well signposted, with regular vantage points to take in the majesty and the sheer power of the Falls. So much water and the mist and spray from the largest curtain of water in the world actually creates its own microclimate and in particular segments  supports a rainforest.

Feel the power!

We had skipped the Zimbabwean guide and opted to tap into @Louis expertise. Was hoping we could keep up with him as he'd already been for a morning run and dived into the freezing pool for a cool down. He did say it was warmer this morning than last night's dip.

Definitely the right call because for the next 2 hours @Louis stepped us along with his endless knowledge and enthusiasm. Started by removing his hat at the base of the imposing statue of David Livingston and piquing our curiosity of this explorer's journeys. Another research project and biography reading when I get home. Reeled off the stats on the Falls, identified the plants, told stories and kept us bubbling along.

@Louis and his guide hero

There's really no better way to experience this. It was a curtain of white power. Relentless surging, broiling, swirling and thundering water. As the mist rose in the air, the wind would catch it and sheets of water eddied and swirled and poured over you in waves.

I've just deleted dozens of random facts that I collected on the walk - but the most important take away here is that the might and power of Victoria Falls is something that must be experienced first hand.

Thoroughly enjoyed all the vantage points of The Falls.

B. Back in the taxis (we need to take 2 to accommodate the crew) its back up the hill to Amadeus to meet up with our Wild Horizons bus for transport to the helipad. We've walked it - now time to fly over it. Unfortunately, we missed our booking time! Quite relieved that their team were generous enough to reschedule us in their lunch break.

All aboard the bus and back to town and set up in Marula Cafe in a perfect town life vantage point Discovered their take on a cappuccino- which included a shot (how do you get that last drop of Amarula out of the shot glass - lick it of course.) Threw in a fast zip around the shops and markets (don't buy in the big smoke - my $10 item at Matopos was $35 here.)

Doing it right, having it all.

And then #take2 - definitely not late this time. Safety briefing, weigh in (Oh dear, blaming the extra layers, the boots and the handbag) and before we were even thinking about it, we were buckled in and headset hooked in, enclosed in a bubble and were off for our own flight of angels.

The weigh in was scarier than the flight 

@Mac took in the 13 minute flight in the smaller chopper with @Gill and @Roz and I joined the NZ foursome and @Louis and squeezed up against the brave but unsure @Del. So glad she was up there snatching furtive views of the unfolding grandeur of the Falls from above.

Thumbs up, sick bags and fears conquered

The Falls from above

C. Lots of recaps and chatter and before we knew it we had regrouped, rugged up and lathered up with the insect repellent, ready for the coach pickup for the sunset cruise on the Zambezi. It is affectionately known as "the booze cruise." A double decker vessel, set up with tables and chairs for viewing offered with finger food and bottomless drinks. That red rock that tumbles to the horizon so quickly is the number 1 draw card - but Captain Romeo found us wallowing hippos as a secondary treat.

I took 374 photos accompanied by a coke - not sure @Mac had the same count on either his photos or his coke+rum count. I am tempted however, to say that @Marg was the over achiever on the photo count - she had 2 lenses fired up and was glued to her view finder. @Tom has become the unofficial master of the video and the panoramic shots. They are glorious.

Lucky I was able to cull that photo count!

Have to share that we did offer a little prayer of thanks to start the cruise. @Louis is reliably meticulous every time we leave a vehicle or venue. "Please check. Have you got all your belongings? Bags, phone, passport, money." And dutifully we all pat, unzip, rezip and check." And yes - invariably there's a scurry and a flurry accompanied by a racing heart -  I lost my phone in Gwango had everyone looking and it was in my back pocket, @Mac had down a pat down and his phone was missing from his pocket - it had slipped out of one of the rough safari drives -  @Gill had similar with hers eventually located in her side pocket, @Del left her handbag on a chair at dinner - @Tom was even momentarily separated from his phone when it slipped behind the seats in the back of the mini bus  ... so we know it happens and appreciate the reminder.

Up until tonight, @Louis hadn't lost anything (except maybe his sanity keeping us all on track,) But he did get a turn tonight. Left his phone on the bus. Now that was a potential catastrophe because it had all the details and contacts for the trip. Thank goodness for the integrity of the bus driver. He spotted it right on the seat and took the time to return it to the boat - lucky @Louis - lucky us.

So that was our 360 of Victoria Falls - and every view was spectacular.

D. Rounded out the night with a good dinner experience (with 200 other guests) at the Chief's Boma. OMG, a carnivore's delight. Wall to wall meat (complete with a splayed pig on a spit), buffet salads, soups, veggies and dessert in a massive venue with plenty of artwork and artefacts, music and dancing AND mopane worms.

Pre-show warmups before the worms. @Steve's face was priceless but he got there in the end.

Think Outback Spectacular" - but the African version. When you arrive you are presented with a cloth sari and a daubed tattoo of face paint as a welcome which is tied over your clothing (maybe a smarter way of putting a bib on you for dinner.) @Roz and @Del were right into it and jumped on in to dance with the welcoming band! Looked good - think they had been waiting for just the right moment to bust out a move.

Once inside it's all action - including tasting the African delicacy the mopane worm. If you chow down you even get a certificate.

Who could resist? Not us. Buoyed on by the guy in front of us who asked for a second one - we had a go. It was chewy but really quite tasteless. Think it was more mind over matter. @Steve was priceless. Got there in the end - but his face contorted into a whole new recorr number of "this is disgusting" poses. Made for great photos.

We grazed and browsed and sampled as much as we could thinking that a 2 hour walk from early in the day would compensate for overeating - while completely ignoring the earlier shock of the helicopter weigh in.

Took advantage of the wandering face painter and you were invited to nominate your favourite animal for a face decoration. Plenty of choices from the animal kingdom but @Steve was steadfastly loyal to #Magogo and the brand - and opted instead for the Toyota symbol! This was a really clever little add on earn - the gentleman was so fast transferring the paint from the pallet and everyone at our table - and most others - was interested.

Monkey business for @Mac and @Steve stole the show ... again ...

More action followed dinner with the interactive drum show. All audience members were issued a drum, and led ny the musicality of our very own members of t h e award winning Christchurch City Choir members @Marg and @Del we smashed and bashed out rhythms for the next 30 minutes. Loads of fun. And I'm sure our group won the audience drum-off challenge.

Homeward bound and dizzy from meat, alcohol amd a good time it was home to clean laundry and another round of packing. I really wanted to keep my wild dog tattoo on my face, but the steam of the shower melted it into a black running mess. Is it possible that I am a tattoo convert?

 Love these two day stays and have a promise of a sleep in tomorrow.

Accommodation 

Steps: 17. 835


Wildlife spotting

Declared today a non recording day of the plants and animals that @Louis shared - we were on the run and I was in the moment

Hippos: walk on sand banks, spurting water, keep sand churned up. Underwater  baby 45 seconds adult 6 minutes - can't swim - very, very dangerous - tusks forward and back on lower jaw - 2000 deaths per year

Safari Day 10: Early game drivers see the dogs!

Hwange to Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe)

Actually surprised that @Mac's phone had the capability to set a 5:15 am alarm - bit it did - and despite very rare use of this timeslot, it dutifully chimed and we untangled ourselves from the netting and added lauwr upon layer upon layer for the morning drive. Dark and cold but you have to up with the predators of you want to catch sight of them.

The Crew at night out in Victoria Falls

Well, the cold certainly didn't improve for the morning drive and neither did the water. We are continuing on with just a lick and a promise but with the alarm shaking us from sleep at 5:15 am can't quite remember if we even had the inclination to try for a shower. Really a day of contrasts - started our day in safari mode - and then progressed to Victoria Falls for what is relative luxury.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS:

A. Ompa-lompa waddled ourselves to a hot pizza concoction and somehow levered ourselves up onto the safari vehicle. A bit of a challenge to get the old joints co-operating in the early morning chill and with the extra padding restricting movement. It was just in that period of first light when we boarded at 6:50 and then returning at 9:50, Certainly a more productive session of spotting animals than the night before.

The clothing rundown went something like this and we are STILL cold on the game drive:

• leather shoes with merino wool inserts and socks
• winter weight long pants
• thermal roll neck top
• long sleeve shirt
• puffer jacket
• wind breaker
• neck warmer
• scarf, gloves, woollen hat

Lots to see perched high in the truck on the morning game drive and yes, it was predictably cold in the open moving vehicle. The sun started to have a little warmth about the 8.30 mark and we soon forgot the cold when we stumbled across a new sighting for the crew. Amazing to see how quickly the darkness turns to light.

Dressed in layer upon layer for game drive

Very energised and metaphorically warmed to see the dogs running free in this Wild Dog Conservation area. We found ourselves following along behind two trotting confidently following the dusty path. They seemed to be luring us on! They'd trot on ahead, pause and look back at the vehicle and as we approached would flash their tails and take off again. Big ears and a uniquely patterned coat they were magnificent. They looked just like a dog padding up the path - but once they spotted prey - their entire body shape changed and they became arrow like, turned on a penny, and their elongated body disappeared in unison in hot pursuit. Hope we catch up on more details when we rejoin @Louis.

Following the dogs - we were back row - need @Steve's front row shot

Our game driver even included a toilet stop at the viewing platform which was the turn around point. The viewing platform was a series of steps up to a shade covered lookout. The area was a mess with baboon droppings and showed evidence of the baboons dismantling the railings and stairs and there were baboons everywhere. The watering hole was home to the lazy hippos and out of nowhere a herd of wildebeest materialised as a black carpet at the watering hole. Birds flitted and pecked around the platform - it was "busy."

It was a looped 11 kms out and then 11 kms back and we were soon pulling up stakes and heading to the falls.

Game drive views

New van - very spacious and snooze friendly

B. First time the crew has really been guilty of a snooze in the vehicle but this 270 km trek through the smoke-filled mining and power station belt on a now familiarly rutted road shared with a constant stream of trucks claimed most at some stage. 

C. Arrived at Victoria Falls right in time for lunch at the Lookout Cafe. What a contrast to where we have been recently. Felt like we were in a "thriving metropolis." Perched high on the cliffs, overlooking the gorge of the Zambezi River it felt we were back in civilisation.

Welcome to the comforts of Victoria Falls

The meal presentation here was extraordinary but I think @Roz and @Gill did it best for the mains. They ordered one of each - a skewer of croc and a skewer of ostrich and shared. Presentation is everything and the meat chunks suspended from the hanging contraption added to the taste - especially washed down with "milk" - somehow the merlot was lost in translation - must have been @Gill's kiwi accent. But must admit, @Marg was the envy of the group with her frozen treat.

We had a bird's eye view of the river and Gorge accompanied by the occasional glimpse of the zipliners and flying fox heroes as they bravely screamed their way by.

Empty tummies filled, next stop was to book activities for the following day at Wild Horizons where, coincidentally, all pairs had selected the same activities. 

Farewell to @Innocent again as he delivered us to Amadeus Gardens - our home for two nights. In this guesthouse, complete with open dining area and rooms fanned around a swimming pool, the showers were piping hot, the water plentiful and the wi-fi was racing. 

Daytime trekking and walking was AOK here in Victoria Falls, but at night, the streets were shared with the large animals so taxis and buses were the go! We were only 700 metres out of town but we stayed local with the group. Except @Louis who at last got to belt out some k-s on his run which he finished off with a splash in the pool.

D. Loaded up in two taxis and headed for The Thee Monkeys for dinner and found loads of choices on the menu and at the bar. @Roz and I even popped the cork on a bottle of bubbly- felt like celebrating now that we were in the big smoke.

And it was "smoke" of a different kind. At lunch we had seen the "mist" of the Falls - apparently ""the smoke that thunders" can, on a clear day" in the wet season be seen from 100 kms. We have no need of the long-distance view well be up close and personal tomorrow.

Fun at the Three Monkeys

Needless to say, after the 5,15 start and a day of travel, punctuated with a few jostled cat naps we were glad of the welcoming comfort of Amadeus Gardens and said our farewells to think about the adventures of tomorrow.

Accommodation: Private guest house with spacious and comfortable rooms set around pool. Large bedroom area with storage and desk, toilet and shower ensuite with piping hot water. Breakfast set-up under cover overlooking pool. @Brian was on hand toco-ordinate guests and requests.

Pool view and courtyard setting from breakfast nook

Steps: 7 381

Transport: new van - even more comfortable 290 kns: local taxi service for night time runs

WILDLIFE SPOTTING

Hippo: come out of water like a zombie - take a moment to get their bearings yawn is first warning sign - get out of my way - big deep bellowing sound

Southern ground horn bill - Galoot from lion King - big and strong longest living bird in Africa- 40 years - dominant male bright under 10 years till maturity - Cane-ism - break egg before it hatches - young one eats brother or sister

Great white egret: 

Crowned lap wing

Pied kingfisher: black and white 

White crested helmet: black and white

Giraffe: remains killed by lion scavenged by hyen 3 weeks ago

Impala 

African Jacana- walks on lilies - the Jesus's bird - mates with lots of males - last male incubates the eggs and raises chicks

Coee bird(?) - calling cooee 

Senegal cuckoo

Warthog

Giraffe. : baby 100 kgs

Serval cat - nocturnal -- tawny banded tail - spots and stripes -Flashed across path disappeared camouflaged in talky grass

Long tailed Shrite (?):   looks like willy wagtail

Steinbok - very fast - very smart animal in bush - covers poop to disguise trail from predator

Painted dog - only difference is tail? - saw them hunting - very fast - endangered

Kudu - massive male - most hunted antelope because of its trophy horns 

Crocodile: grows entire life- teeth replaced as lost

Wildebeest. : herd just "appeared" 

Baboons :

Hippo looks innocent but most dangerous animal out here - birds perched on head, massive gaping yarning mouth 

Banana bird

Zebra

Domesticated animals

Goats

Cows

Google Maps Day 10 Victoria Falls

Safari Day 8: How close can you go with the Rhino Whisperer?

Matopos (Matopos National Park, Zimbabwe)

Woke early feeling refreshed and sat glued to the front door views as the sun rose hoping for a view of the giraffe that @Kerry said were frequent visitors to The Farmhouse. No luck on that early morning vigil but as the day unfolded there was no shortage of up close views. 

Loving the up close encounters with the giraffe

I know it is an "African safari tour" and you are "sighting wild animals" - and that sounds as if it is just more and more of the same. But really, no two days or even two experiences are the same. No such thing as "if you've seen one, you've seen them all. The excitement of the first sighting is the same as the next ... and the next ... and the next. So much to see and learn, so many questions and conversations and a never ending parade of wildlife, places and people. Certainly beyond expectations. Add to that fun loving and easy going travelling companions who are just so "grand" in their diversity who have a lifetime of stories and experience to share and a guide who is passionate, knowledgeable, organised and has a handy network on the ground. And the mix is just right.

The big mystery of the morning was of course "How is @Louis and how did he spend the night?" We had consoled ourselves over dinner last night that he had shared light heartedly that he had NUMEROUS lady friends in EVERY town - fingers crossed in this one town there had been at least one.  

He arrived at 9:25 with @Ian (the rhino whisperer), with confirmation that the gear box had been removed from #Magogo and @Louis, as usual, was all smiles although not as smartly "pressed" as he usually is - we had his luggage with us so he needed to call on @Ian to tide him over.

It was Sunday here and definitely unlikely that parts can be sourced for #Magogo in a timely fashion. Solution to our travel arrangements pending - but given the organisation so far - there will be a solution. Our only job is to relax and enjoy the day. And that we did.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS

A. Breakfast in the sunshine of the deck and then all aboard @Ian's safari vehicle (with the help of an overturned crate step - can't live with out it.) This 15 km drive to the Motopos Park was a little warmer than last night's long haul. Freshened us up and literally blew the cobwebs away.

The Farmhouse with their handmade information and guest books.

Ready to explore.

The four-hour morning tour was punctuated with stops so that @Ian could share the history and significance of the park (geological formation and the oldest rocks in the world); the heart of the scouting movement and Baden Powell's property and vision: the Moth Memorial Site and the recognition of the role of locals in the second world war and the air force training base.) 

Warmer ride this morning

With location services turned off on our phones so that our photos didn't give any hint of the rhinos location, and with @Steve suspended on the "dickie seat" out front as bait and our official master spotter - we were off. (Definitely had to censor @Tom's joke here.)

@Steve - out front!

With a heads up from the armed guard, we were out of the truck and focussed on our "real" purpose. This was our turn to track the rhino on foot. Yep, in single file behind @Ian, @Louis and the armed guard, we trekked through the tall, yellowed and dry tussocks of grass (had a little trouble with prickles in the crutch after this) until we encountered a mother and baby white rhino languishing in the sun.

Had fun with prickles from the grass

So trusting - such easy prey - rhinos are dehorned in am attempt to determine poaching

With hushed voices and gentle steps we climbed onto a mound of granite and a mere 20 metres from the pair, we watched in awe as @Ian clicked, called and talked soothingly to his extended family. Before long a young "teenage" male joined us intent on reaching the pair. He too, at the base of our low lying mound, a handful of metres away. Ears flexing from side to side, slow and calm, the three rhinos kept us in their senses as we kept them in our sight.

We left and gave them space before were wore out our welcome

This trek and encounter was predicated by an impassioned and emotive introduction by @Ian around the plight of this animal. Numbers disappearing so fast that it has been predicted that in 10 years there will be none left in the wild. @Ian's voice certainly dripped with honey; absolute dulcet and hypnotic tones, he had you eating out of his hand as he condemned the insanity of the Asian driven market for the slaughter of the rhino. Here is the story of an animal in danger - 10 years ago 11 000 in Kruger - today just 2 000. The good guys are fighting a losing battle.

@Ian - working every day to save the rhino

 With the Asian market driven by an unfounded belief that taking herbals mixed with the horn is an aphrodisiac that enlarges the human penis and sustains male performance: an insatiable and irrational market drives the demand! A desire by a male for a 20 kg penis and copulation for 30-60 minutes probably doesn't quite match a female's aspiration spat @Ian shaking his head and shrugging his shoulders. The animals are being mutilated and slaughtered over this crazy stuff. 

And the taking of the horn is such a brutal practice. Every ounce is hacked from inside the skull and the animal is left to die and rot. The US$100 000 a kilo value of the average 5 kg horn makes each kill worth about half a million dollars. Such a lucrative market that has now attracted the attention of the sophisticated Colombian cartels. They have moved in and the local conservation efforts are powerless to stop the wave of slaughter. There are 50 rangers in Motopos with shoot to kill permissions and they catch around 20 to 25 poachers a month.

Money, money, money is the motivator and although @Ian's plan of managing the market makes sense, that initiative has been stalled by the CITES international ruling that has banned the "legal" sale of horn, thanks to the negative vote on the world stage by "tree hugging, lovey-dovey, feel-good, do-gooders" in countries such as New Zealand and Australia. His words not mine.

He presented a reasoned and rational proposal - using the stocks currently held in parks collected over the years from animals that have died in the wild - how the  market could be sustained for 50 years into the future and perhaps even force the price down and even influence demand.

In the meantime, passionate conservationist on the ground are doing their best with personal investment in providing protected spaces for the rhino (how can they possibly succeed - the poachers are so determined and brazen they are even stealing rhino horn from museums and private collections), lobby international officials and government, educate the local people and the wider community and keep up the fight. Zimbabwe is a little serious about protection - they can "shoot to kill" poachers!

There is a project in the wind to relocate 400 rhino to central Australia (keeping their location a secret - hmm, how is that ever going to work) as part of the conservation effort.

All of the front loading of not only the features and habits of the black and white rhinos (it's not white - the original word was actually wide ... was lost in translation) but also their plight for survival, made standing on a little raised mound of rock in the middle of Motopos Park, watching this relaxed little family of rhino a goose bump moment.

Needless to say, after the return trek, there was shopping. This was the only outlet in the park and featured the craft and handiwork of the community. No hard sell here - just a beautiful selection of hand painted fabrics, stone and wood carvings, hats, bags, sarongs and tableware. There was no shortage of enthusiasm for parting with US$ (excessive hyperinflation here in Zimbabwe, their local currency has collapsed) by the ladies while the men just pulled up under a tree and made their own yarning circle complete with a freezing cold beverage courtesy of @Ian.

Local markets for bargains

B. All aboard and a return to The Farmhouse for lunch and then it was free time. Some opted for washing duty, others for a breather. @Marge, @Del, @Mac and I opted for a walk. Armed with a map (you can imagine how excited @Mac was) we took off on the yellow trail to see what we could see. Had progressed a mere 60 metres and our left-hand turn took us eyeball to kneecap with two giraffe right there on the path. We hadn't talked with @Louis about what to do when meeting a giraffe so we improvised- stopped, talked quietly and backed away. The giraffe obviously knew what they were doing and as soon as we were off the path they ambled across to their water station. Our 2 km walk looped us around back to the guest houses and we marvelled at the number of giraffe we spotted just wandering the grounds of The Farmhouse.

Going for a stroll armed with a map - needed strategies for animal encounters very early

Back right on time to meet up with @Andre in his pickup truck and the rest of the crew to do the feeding rounds. Although the animals are grazing freely, he does do a 4 pm run every day with additional pellet food offerings. So it was all aboard.

On the rounds with @Andre

He whistled and called using animal noises as he approached each of the feeding stations - pulled up and waited for some takers. And right on greedy queue they materialised from the bush. Giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, kudu, warthog and even Guinea fowl drop on buy in numbers for a top up.

As the tallest @Mac was assigned the job of topping up the feed trays for the giraffe. And there was some maths involved. So this one is for you @Anth: 

@Andre instructed that the feed buckets needed to be shared equally across the 3 giraffe stations. At the first station @Andre advised "give them a third." Moved on a couple of kms to the next station and inquired, looking into the bucket "How much are going to give them now?" 

 @Anth, when @Dad responded with the correct answer (of course he did), @Andre was in total shock and disbelief. @Dad was the first guest EVER to give the right answer. 

Feeding duties for my favs

We spent a wonderful late afternoon sharing this experience with @Andre and the other tour groups which were visiting The Farmhouse for the feeding rounds. Always a wary watchfulness between @Andre and the herds that gathered - and definitely no "petting."

Rounded out the evening with our usual routine of dinner and drinks and were appreciative of the update for tomorrow. #Magogo is definitely a NO GO - and a new vehicle and trailer will join us later in the morning. So a little sleep in is on the cards.

Accommodation: second night (we love two nights in a row at a single venue!) at The Farmhouse and their grounds are exceptional - includes a variety of walking tracks and a hilltop camp site with breathtaking views. With clear night skies filled with countless stars - we'd give The Farmhouse, @Kerry and @Andre and the team a billion-star rating.

Each chalet nestled in its own private spit - plenty of room

What's on the menu: Breakfast - cereal, fruit, yoghurt and sausages, eggs and tomato; lunch - Lasagne and salad; dinner: mushroom soup (because @Mac had mentioned it was his favourite), chicken schnitzel and vegetables and chocolate slice with ice-cream. So much food, all freshly prepared by the The Farmhouse chef. - delicious.

Steps 13 658

Transport: open safari vehicle; Shanks pony; pickup truck Distance - 50 km

WILDLIFE SPOTTING

Rhino: up close and personal - 20 metres - mother, 2 month old baby and teenage male, very docile - fastest disappearing animal. In the world; involved process of dehorning rhino - horn grows back - calf every 2 to 3 years - close relative of horse 

Monkey

Impala

Baboon

Dieker

Giraffe: in our Farmhouse grounds - set out on 2 km trek to find them turned a corner and there they were

Zebra

Wildebeest

Warthog

Guinea fowl

Kudu