Tuesday, June 27, 2023

Safari Day 10: Early game drivers see the dogs!

Hwange to Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe)

Actually surprised that @Mac's phone had the capability to set a 5:15 am alarm - bit it did - and despite very rare use of this timeslot, it dutifully chimed and we untangled ourselves from the netting and added lauwr upon layer upon layer for the morning drive. Dark and cold but you have to up with the predators of you want to catch sight of them.

The Crew at night out in Victoria Falls

Well, the cold certainly didn't improve for the morning drive and neither did the water. We are continuing on with just a lick and a promise but with the alarm shaking us from sleep at 5:15 am can't quite remember if we even had the inclination to try for a shower. Really a day of contrasts - started our day in safari mode - and then progressed to Victoria Falls for what is relative luxury.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS:

A. Ompa-lompa waddled ourselves to a hot pizza concoction and somehow levered ourselves up onto the safari vehicle. A bit of a challenge to get the old joints co-operating in the early morning chill and with the extra padding restricting movement. It was just in that period of first light when we boarded at 6:50 and then returning at 9:50, Certainly a more productive session of spotting animals than the night before.

The clothing rundown went something like this and we are STILL cold on the game drive:

  • leather shoes with merino wool inserts and socks
  • winter weight long pants
  • thermal roll neck top
  • long sleeve shirt
  • puffer jacket
  • wind breaker
  • neck warmer
  • scarf, gloves, woollen hat

Lots to see perched high in the truck on the morning game drive and yes, it was predictably cold in the open moving vehicle. The sun started to have a little warmth about the 8.30 mark and we soon forgot the cold when we stumbled across a new sighting for the crew. Amazing to see how quickly the darkness turns to light.

Dressed in layer upon layer for game drive

Very energised and metaphorically warmed to see the dogs running free in this Wild Dog Conservation area. We found ourselves following along behind two trotting confidently following the dusty path. They seemed to be luring us on! They'd trot on ahead, pause and look back at the vehicle and as we approached would flash their tails and take off again. Big ears and a uniquely patterned coat they were magnificent. They looked just like a dog padding up the path - but once they spotted prey - their entire body shape changed and they became arrow like, turned on a penny, and their elongated body disappeared in unison in hot pursuit. Hope we catch up on more details when we rejoin @Louis.

Following the dogs - we were back row - need @Steve's front row shot

Our game driver even included a toilet stop at the viewing platform which was the turn around point. The viewing platform was a series of steps up to a shade covered lookout. The area was a mess with baboon droppings and showed evidence of the baboons dismantling the railings and stairs and there were baboons everywhere. The watering hole was home to the lazy hippos and out of nowhere a herd of wildebeest materialised as a black carpet at the watering hole. Birds flitted and pecked around the platform - it was "busy."

It was a looped 11 kms out and then 11 kms back and we were soon pulling up stakes and heading to the falls.

Game drive views

New van - very spacious and snooze friendly

B. First time the crew has really been guilty of a snooze in the vehicle but this 270 km trek through the smoke-filled mining and power station belt on a now familiarly rutted road shared with a constant stream of trucks claimed most at some stage. 

C. Arrived at Victoria Falls right in time for lunch at the Lookout Cafe. What a contrast to where we have been recently. Felt like we were in a "thriving metropolis." Perched high on the cliffs, overlooking the gorge of the Zambezi River it felt we were back in civilisation.

Welcome to the comforts of Victoria Falls

The meal presentation here was extraordinary but I think @Roz and @Gill did it best for the mains. They ordered one of each - a skewer of croc and a skewer of ostrich and shared. Presentation is everything and the meat chunks suspended from the hanging contraption added to the taste - especially washed down with "milk" - somehow the merlot was lost in translation - must have been @Gill's kiwi accent. But must admit, @Marg was the envy of the group with her frozen treat.


We had a bird's eye view of the river and Gorge accompanied by the occasional glimpse of the zipliners and flying fox heroes as they bravely screamed their way by.

Empty tummies filled, next stop was to book activities for the following day at Wild Horizons where, coincidentally, all pairs had selected the same activities. 

Farewell to @Innocent again as he delivered us to Amadeus Gardens - our home for two nights. In this guesthouse, complete with open dining area and rooms fanned around a swimming pool, the showers were piping hot, the water plentiful and the wi-fi was racing. 

Daytime trekking and walking was AOK here in Victoria Falls, but at night, the streets were shared with the large animals so taxis and buses were the go! We were only 700 metres out of town but we stayed local with the group. Except @Louis who at last got to belt out some k-s on his run which he finished off with a splash in the pool.

D. Loaded up in two taxis and headed for The Thee Monkeys for dinner and found loads of choices on the menu and at the bar. @Roz and I even popped the cork on a bottle of bubbly- felt like celebrating now that we were in the big smoke.

And it was "smoke" of a different kind. At lunch we had seen the "mist" of the Falls - apparently ""the smoke that thunders" can, on a clear day" in the wet season be seen from 100 kms. We have no need of the long-distance view well be up close and personal tomorrow.




Fun at the Three Monkeys


Needless to say, after the 5,15 start and a day of travel, punctuated with a few jostled cat naps we were glad of the welcoming comfort of Amadeus Gardens and said our farewells to think about the adventures of tomorrow.

Accommodation: Private guest house with spacious and comfortable rooms set around pool. Large bedroom area with storage and desk, toilet and shower ensuite with piping hot water. Breakfast set-up under cover overlooking pool. @Brian was on hand toco-ordinate guests and requests.

Pool view and courtyard setting from breakfast nook

Steps: 7 381

Transport: new van - even more comfortable 290 kns: local taxi service for night time runs

WILDLIFE SPOTTING

Hippo: come out of water like a zombie - take a moment to get their bearings yawn is first warning sign - get out of my way - big deep bellowing sound

Southern ground horn bill - Galoot from lion King - big and strong longest living bird in Africa- 40 years - dominant male bright under 10 years till maturity - Cane-ism - break egg before it hatches - young one eats brother or sister

Great white egret: 

Crowned lap wing

Pied kingfisher: black and white 

White crested helmet: black and white

Giraffe: remains killed by lion scavenged by hyen 3 weeks ago

Impala 

African Jacana- walks on lilies - the Jesus's bird - mates with lots of males - last male incubates the eggs and raises chicks

Coee bird(?) - calling cooee 

Senegal cuckoo

Warthog

Giraffe. : baby 100 kgs

Serval cat - nocturnal -- tawny banded tail - spots and stripes -Flashed across path disappeared camouflaged in talky grass

Long tailed Shrite (?):   looks like willy wagtail

Steinbok - very fast - very smart animal in bush - covers poop to disguise trail from predator

Painted dog - only difference is tail? - saw them hunting - very fast - endangered

Kudu - massive male - most hunted antelope because of its trophy horns 

Crocodile: grows entire life- teeth replaced as lost

Wildebeest. : herd just "appeared" 

Baboons :

Hippo looks innocent but most dangerous animal out here - birds perched on head, massive gaping yarning mouth 

Banana bird

Zebra


Domesticated animals

Goats

Cows

Google Maps Day 10 Victoria Falls



Monday, June 26, 2023

Safari Day 9: Mini-bus comfort and night chills on safari

Matopos to Hwange (Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe)

A plan within a plan had evolved. A replacement vehicle, trailer and driver were expected and we were more than happy to sit tight and wait.


TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS:

A. Perfect LATE 9 am breakfast on the balcony meant we had time to completely repack. Everything fits back in comfortably but definitely would have been an advantage to have my "lost" spare bag on hand. We have a single night stopover today and once again just packed the kiwi back pack that we borrowed from @Gill with tonight's essentials - don't need to take the big bags in.

 #Magogo failed to report to duty and remains in the fixit shop and after his huge afternoon and early morning relocation journey from Vic Falls (speaking like a local now) our 13 seater alternate arrived at 11 am complete with driver who introduced himself as @Innocent. The law is that if the vehicle is hired in Zimbabwe, it must be driven by a Zimbabwean licence holder. @Louis was still with us but had one less job to do. 

The replacement vehicle was AIR CONDITIONED and you don't even need a step, a milk crate a forklift or a helping hand to get on board. Each travelling pair has a "row" of seats which is absolute luxury. One seat for each bottom and one for the backpacks, plenty of storage for the provisions and even room to stretch out the legs. The trailer was extra large - all the luggage was in and we are not travelling with anything tied to the roof.  Sorry to be so disloyal #Magogo but this is delightfully comfortable. @Steve, however, remained unfaithfully loyal to the land cruiser!

Hitching a ride with @Innocent in the van 

@Mac's rotation system was completely blown out of the water but everyone appreciated the extra room on what was another big day of repositioning and sitting on the bus.

 Time was so precious and stops and conditions so unpredictable that we took a packed lunch from the lodge as sustenance for the predicted 6-hour journey. Timing is extremely hard to judge on these "so called" main roads - the distance that needs to be negotiated through wild potholed conditions is not to be underestimated.

Lots of  dusty settlements, lunch on the go but plenty of room. Luxury.

B. At 11:15 we waved a fond farewell to @Kerry and @Andre settled in and headed back for a much warmer retrace of the 40kms to Bulawayo as our first leg.

The long haul to Hwange was along roads that alternated through rutted bitumen corridors and narrow pot- holed strips that were once roads. Need to be a rally car driver to pick a pathway through the endless destruction on these surfaces. Encountered "random" "not employed by anyone" men with shovels just scattering dirt and stones into holes and then waving at the passing drivers for money as a thank you gesture.

There were stretches of road that were great but where they were bad it was very very bad. @Innocent had to spot the destruction, work out a strategy to share the available road with the oncoming traffic, brake to an almost standstill to negotiate what was often a deep rut that breaks the continuity of the road and keep us all upright in our seats and prevent heads from making contact with the ceiling. Not really a "snoozing" surface for the passengers - relaxation comes with unexpected wake up shakes

Barely a township in sight on this stretch of road although we did see one random general store (that was open); a two-pump petrol station in the middle of nowhere; passed one accident involving a transport vehicle; noted two motor bike conveys of five riders each and encountered one police check point (waved on through because we were tourists.)

And the animals we see - cows, donkeys and goats - have to predict their intentions and dodge them on the roads as well. @Mac has dubbed these the "Domesticated Big3" and totally random spotted one lone black pig on the run today.

After two hours of driving @Louis checked in on our need for a comfortable stop - bushman style. No takers.

At three hours he checked again. A pause of dead silence and then brave @Gill offered "I'll need one soon. @Innocent's mission was to find us a wooded area with not too much  passing traffic.

Time to introduce #Sheweena to Africa. What a star. Put my back up against a tree, locked and loaded, and Bob's your uncle. No pants down featuring a white bottom, no squatting, no prickles where you don't need them for me. A little shake and wipe and I was smiling. Not sure what the local dude in the orange vest thought when he saw the white woman peeing standing up - but he didn't fall off his bike so probably just thought "that's Africa." The other ladies had various degrees of squatting success and were grateful for @Louis's toilet roll that he cheekily offered to auction off.

Thanks @Gill it was a relief.

#Sheweena and I took the big tree on the left! Other crew members disappeared further into bush.

Once we hit the Hwange concession, we started to see the wildlife including elephants. Heard the story of Cecil the lion which was killed by the American dentist. Story made headlines around the world but apparently, he was a very old lion without a pride (had been banished) and he was shot on the concession with a legally acquired permit. I've just Dr Googled and that is definitely not the story being shared. However, there is acknowledgement that his death boosted conservation fund raising.

B. Arrived at Hwange a shade after 4 pm and were met by an elephant being herded off the main path of the camp. Got our keys and accompanied our luggage (carried on the head by the porter) and opened the door to a beautifully presented hut for the night.

@Roz and the porter

That balcony perfect gathering spot.
Happy "half an hour" 

It was busy, busy, busy - no time to waste. Congregated on the front porch at @Del and @Steve's for "we made it" drinks (@Del had even set up a bar - we were motivated to clear some of the already opened bottles.) Also had to have collective diagnosis of @Marg's scratch from the Acacia thorn before determining and sourcing the appropriate first aid - lots of suggestions and funnily none of them included elephant, giraffe or impala droppings.

Next stop was predinner drinks at the bar with great, talkative hosts and time to explore the first-floor pool and lounge area.

Moved on to the open fire pit and circular seating for a recap of the day, swapping stories and highlights and tuned in to @Louis's emotional story of his Botswanan encounter with his spirit animal, the elephant. He mentioned he has created a short, animated film "Do elephants go to heaven? We are interested in viewing.

Next "station" was the outdoor eating hut for dinner - it was a menu that offered guests some choice - curry chicken for me and a number of the crew, otbers selected a braised beef and @Mac and @Steve tried the crocodile tail with chips. 

Report was it had a nice texture, the flesh was white but the flavour of the coating dominated any distinctly identifiable taste that could be pegged as crocodile. Nonetheless very tasty and an enjoyable experience - no crocodile and no chips left. 

The highlight at the dinner table though was @Mac the Hiccup Whisperer. @Gill was a little bubble of explosions of hiccups at the end of the table and @Mac offered his "cure." Don't know how or why it works - but it does. It was always the go to for our kids. He gently massages the eyeballs (over the closed eyelids of course) in circular motion for about 60 seconds and much to the astonishment of the crew - especially @Gill - her hiccups were instantly cured! Bravo our hero!


Continuing with the "moving," next stop was the cultural performance by the staff- drums, beads, impala head dress and skirt, singing, dancing, stamping and kicking, dust and (dreaded) AUDIENCE PARTICIPATION. Our host filled us in on the history of the local people and emphatically introduced us to the rules of the show:

Rule Number 1: No refusals

Rule Number 2: No refusals

The music action began and all too soon it was our turn. Was more laughing than that dancing, but the crew gave its collective best, much to the enjoyment of our host.

The real thing and the rule following pretenders. Think @Mac hurt his knee.
Moving through the venues

C. Last activity on the roster was the night safari. Okay. Imagine the coldest you have ever been. Now double it - and you are not even close to how COLD it was. Yes, had beanie, gloves, scarf, two layers of jackets and long pants, socks and leather boots AND a lodge provided blanket, and we were still chilled to the bone perched up on the seats of the open-air safari vehicle. 

That cold was only when the vehicle was stationary - it was nothing compared with when the vehicle was moving.

This drive was 60 minutes of tension: driving in the pitch dark, accompanied by @Louis and the local guide, both armed with bright handheld 🔦 + 🔦 (no guns or big sticks), searching in an open vehicle for lions, leopards and creatures of the night. At one stage, I interrupted the shivering to ask myself "Why are we doing this?" But obviously we have lived to tell the tale.

Not sure if we were glad or sad when we didn't spot any cats because we were in the back row of the vehicle. Consoled myself that we had the huge spare tyre at our backs as our shield - and we weren't easy pickings.

Did the rounds of the park - trying to pinpoint the eyes in the dark but the sightings were lean. Did get very close to some extra-large elephants and were startled by their trumpeting and "snuffling." 

Have absolutely no photos. Could not risk the cold! And bizarrely, @Mac got the hiccups on the safari - hadn't had them himself for years - he must have absorbed them from @Gill. And in the silence of the nighttime safari - we entertained ourselves for a good 20 minutes with his efforts to suppress his gulps. There was no way I was taking my hands out to rub his eyeballs!

I can say with confidence that we were all glad to disembark and scurry to our individual "home" for the night. Unfortunately - the decision to shower AFTER the safari was a BIG mistake. Although we could encourage some hot water from the hand basin - the shower and its 12 fine sprays of water didn't deliver. I was content with splashing a little bit of water around some "precious bits" and doing the "I am freezing" quickstep and to reapply the deodorant - sure I can get away with it!

Took a running leap and high jumped into my single bed and snuggled down for a dreamless night knowing that the alarm was set for 5.15 am in preparation for the early morning safari run. Glad I didn't have nightmares about the possibilities of the temperatures for tomorrow morning.

PS Need to research and read Shannon Pincott "Elephant Whisperer" - she hails from Granite Belt.

Accommodation:  Gwango Elephant Lodge - individual, what feel like very new, individual chalets. All concrete walls and floors. High mosquito covered beds, spacious bedroom with featured wood bag stands and bed heads, African animal print art works; separate shower, bathroom and storage with very cute "stable" door privacy screen. Sandy pathways to the chalet are shared with the elephants (stay alert)! Shared areas of bar, pool and open-air dining venues. And as we have encountered throughout the trip - the most obliging and helpful staff team.

Accommodation always special.

Steps: ignoring pedometer today - says 18 000 - but that was the impact of the vehicle on rutted roads

Transport: replacement vehicle and trailer. Departure: 11:15 Arrival 3:47 pm Distance: 350 kms

WILDLIFE SPOTTING:

Ant lion: only walks backwards; turns into lace wing butterfly

Sable: very stately, large black horns, national animal of Zimbabwe, thermal regulation with white on face, record a few years back 4.5 million rand for breeding stock ( game breeders breed for length of horns); males and females have horns

Elephants: even bigger looming in dark; trumpeted and rumbled at the safari vehicle - eat and drink 20 out of 24 hours a day

Bark scorpion: @Louis located with ultra violet light - then warned us to check shoes in morning - small stinger, large pincer - makes you unwell (deadly version large stinger, small pincer)

Bush baby: like a monkey very fast - make the sound of a baby crying  - huge eyes

Spring hair: the south African version of kangaroo - very fast bounds/springs

Owl

Steinbok

Domesticated animals

Donkey

Goat

Cow

Pig - just one little lonely critter scurrying across the road

(@Mac has named them the Domestic 3 - when we are out of the parks - they are spotted in porlific numbers)



















Accommodation:Gwango Elephant Lodge

Wildlife Spotting: text here

What's on the menu: text here

Weather: text here

Steps: here

Transport:  am departure,  pm arrival -  km

Google Maps Matopos to Hwange, Zimbabwe



Sunday, June 25, 2023

Safari Day 8: How close can you go with the Rhino Whisperer?

Matopos (Matopos National Park, Zimbabwe)

Woke early feeling refreshed and sat glued to the front door views as the sun rose hoping for a view of the giraffe that @Kerry said were frequent visitors to The Farmhouse. No luck on that early morning vigil but as the day unfolded there was no shortage of up close views. 

Loving the up close encounters with the giraffe

I know it is an "African safari tour" and you are "sighting wild animals" - and that sounds as if it is just more and more of the same. But really, no two days or even two experiences are the same. No such thing as "if you've seen one, you've seen them all. The excitement of the first sighting is the same as the next ... and the next ... and the next. So much to see and learn, so many questions and conversations and a never ending parade of wildlife, places and people. Certainly beyond expectations. Add to that fun loving and easy going travelling companions who are just so "grand" in their diversity who have a lifetime of stories and experience to share and a guide who is passionate, knowledgeable, organised and has a handy network on the ground. And the mix is just right.

The big mystery of the morning was of course "How is @Louis and how did he spend the night?" We had consoled ourselves over dinner last night that he had shared light heartedly that he had NUMEROUS lady friends in EVERY town - fingers crossed in this one town there had been at least one.  

He arrived at 9:25 with @Ian (the rhino whisperer), with confirmation that the gear box had been removed from #Magogo and @Louis, as usual, was all smiles although not as smartly "pressed" as he usually is - we had his luggage with us so he needed to call on @Ian to tide him over.

It was Sunday here and definitely unlikely that parts can be sourced for #Magogo in a timely fashion. Solution to our travel arrangements pending - but given the organisation so far - there will be a solution. Our only job is to relax and enjoy the day. And that we did.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS

A. Breakfast in the sunshine of the deck and then all aboard @Ian's safari vehicle (with the help of an overturned crate step - can't live with out it.) This 15 km drive to the Motopos Park was a little warmer than last night's long haul. Freshened us up and literally blew the cobwebs away.

The Farmhouse with their handmade information and guest books.

Ready to explore.

The four-hour morning tour was punctuated with stops so that @Ian could share the history and significance of the park (geological formation and the oldest rocks in the world); the heart of the scouting movement and Baden Powell's property and vision: the Moth Memorial Site and the recognition of the role of locals in the second world war and the air force training base.) 

Warmer ride this morning

With location services turned off on our phones so that our photos didn't give any hint of the rhinos location, and with @Steve suspended on the "dickie seat" out front as bait and our official master spotter - we were off. (Definitely had to censor @Tom's joke here.)

@Steve - out front!

With a heads up from the armed guard, we were out of the truck and focussed on our "real" purpose. This was our turn to track the rhino on foot. Yep, in single file behind @Ian, @Louis and the armed guard, we trekked through the tall, yellowed and dry tussocks of grass (had a little trouble with prickles in the crutch after this) until we encountered a mother and baby white rhino languishing in the sun.

Had fun with prickles from the grass

So trusting - such easy prey - rhinos are dehorned in am attempt to determine poaching

With hushed voices and gentle steps we climbed onto a mound of granite and a mere 20 metres from the pair, we watched in awe as @Ian clicked, called and talked soothingly to his extended family. Before long a young "teenage" male joined us intent on reaching the pair. He too, at the base of our low lying mound, a handful of metres away. Ears flexing from side to side, slow and calm, the three rhinos kept us in their senses as we kept them in our sight.


We left and gave them space before were wore out our welcome

This trek and encounter was predicated by an impassioned and emotive introduction by @Ian around the plight of this animal. Numbers disappearing so fast that it has been predicted that in 10 years there will be none left in the wild. @Ian's voice certainly dripped with honey; absolute dulcet and hypnotic tones, he had you eating out of his hand as he condemned the insanity of the Asian driven market for the slaughter of the rhino. Here is the story of an animal in danger - 10 years ago 11 000 in Kruger - today just 2 000. The good guys are fighting a losing battle.

@Ian - working every day to save the rhino

 With the Asian market driven by an unfounded belief that taking herbals mixed with the horn is an aphrodisiac that enlarges the human penis and sustains male performance: an insatiable and irrational market drives the demand! A desire by a male for a 20 kg penis and copulation for 30-60 minutes probably doesn't quite match a female's aspiration spat @Ian shaking his head and shrugging his shoulders. The animals are being mutilated and slaughtered over this crazy stuff. 

And the taking of the horn is such a brutal practice. Every ounce is hacked from inside the skull and the animal is left to die and rot. The US$100 000 a kilo value of the average 5 kg horn makes each kill worth about half a million dollars. Such a lucrative market that has now attracted the attention of the sophisticated Colombian cartels. They have moved in and the local conservation efforts are powerless to stop the wave of slaughter. There are 50 rangers in Motopos with shoot to kill permissions and they catch around 20 to 25 poachers a month.

Money, money, money is the motivator and although @Ian's plan of managing the market makes sense, that initiative has been stalled by the CITES international ruling that has banned the "legal" sale of horn, thanks to the negative vote on the world stage by "tree hugging, lovey-dovey, feel-good, do-gooders" in countries such as New Zealand and Australia. His words not mine.

He presented a reasoned and rational proposal - using the stocks currently held in parks collected over the years from animals that have died in the wild - how the  market could be sustained for 50 years into the future and perhaps even force the price down and even influence demand.

In the meantime, passionate conservationist on the ground are doing their best with personal investment in providing protected spaces for the rhino (how can they possibly succeed - the poachers are so determined and brazen they are even stealing rhino horn from museums and private collections), lobby international officials and government, educate the local people and the wider community and keep up the fight. Zimbabwe is a little serious about protection - they can "shoot to kill" poachers!

There is a project in the wind to relocate 400 rhino to central Australia (keeping their location a secret - hmm, how is that ever going to work) as part of the conservation effort.

All of the front loading of not only the features and habits of the black and white rhinos (it's not white - the original word was actually wide ... was lost in translation) but also their plight for survival, made standing on a little raised mound of rock in the middle of Motopos Park, watching this relaxed little family of rhino a goose bump moment.

Needless to say, after the return trek, there was shopping. This was the only outlet in the park and featured the craft and handiwork of the community. No hard sell here - just a beautiful selection of hand painted fabrics, stone and wood carvings, hats, bags, sarongs and tableware. There was no shortage of enthusiasm for parting with US$ (excessive hyperinflation here in Zimbabwe, their local currency has collapsed) by the ladies while the men just pulled up under a tree and made their own yarning circle complete with a freezing cold beverage courtesy of @Ian.

Local markets for bargains


B. All aboard and a return to The Farmhouse for lunch and then it was free time. Some opted for washing duty, others for a breather. @Marge, @Del, @Mac and I opted for a walk. Armed with a map (you can imagine how excited @Mac was) we took off on the yellow trail to see what we could see. Had progressed a mere 60 metres and our left-hand turn took us eyeball to kneecap with two giraffe right there on the path. We hadn't talked with @Louis about what to do when meeting a giraffe so we improvised- stopped, talked quietly and backed away. The giraffe obviously knew what they were doing and as soon as we were off the path they ambled across to their water station. Our 2 km walk looped us around back to the guest houses and we marvelled at the number of giraffe we spotted just wandering the grounds of The Farmhouse.

Going for a stroll armed with a map - needed strategies for animal encounters very early

Back right on time to meet up with @Andre in his pickup truck and the rest of the crew to do the feeding rounds. Although the animals are grazing freely, he does do a 4 pm run every day with additional pellet food offerings. So it was all aboard.

On the rounds with @Andre

He whistled and called using animal noises as he approached each of the feeding stations - pulled up and waited for some takers. And right on greedy queue they materialised from the bush. Giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, kudu, warthog and even Guinea fowl drop on buy in numbers for a top up.

As the tallest @Mac was assigned the job of topping up the feed trays for the giraffe. And there was some maths involved. So this one is for you @Anth

@Andre instructed that the feed buckets needed to be shared equally across the 3 giraffe stations. At the first station @Andre advised "give them a third." Moved on a couple of kms to the next station and inquired, looking into the bucket "How much are going to give them now?" 

 @Anth, when @Dad responded with the correct answer (of course he did), @Andre was in total shock and disbelief. @Dad was the first guest EVER to give the right answer. 

Feeding duties for my favs

We spent a wonderful late afternoon sharing this experience with @Andre and the other tour groups which were visiting The Farmhouse for the feeding rounds. Always a wary watchfulness between @Andre and the herds that gathered - and definitely no "petting."

Rounded out the evening with our usual routine of dinner and drinks and were appreciative of the update for tomorrow. #Magogo is definitely a NO GO - and a new vehicle and trailer will join us later in the morning. So a little sleep in is on the cards.

Accommodation: second night (we love two nights in a row at a single venue!) at The Farmhouse and their grounds are exceptional - includes a variety of walking tracks and a hilltop camp site with breathtaking views. With clear night skies filled with countless stars - we'd give The Farmhouse, @Kerry and @Andre and the team a billion-star rating.

Each chalet nestled in its own private spit - plenty of room

What's on the menuBreakfast - cereal, fruit, yoghurt and sausages, eggs and tomato; lunch - Lasagne and salad; dinner: mushroom soup (because @Mac had mentioned it was his favourite), chicken schnitzel and vegetables and chocolate slice with ice-cream. So much food, all freshly prepared by the The Farmhouse chef. - delicious.

Steps 13 658

Transport: open safari vehicle; Shanks pony; pickup truck Distance - 50 km

WILDLIFE SPOTTING

Rhino: up close and personal - 20 metres - mother, 2 month old baby and teenage male, very docile - fastest disappearing animal. In the world; involved process of dehorning rhino - horn grows back - calf every 2 to 3 years - close relative of horse 

Monkey

Impala

Baboon

Dieker

Giraffe: in our Farmhouse grounds - set out on 2 km trek to find them turned a corner and there they were

Zebra

Wildebeest

Warthog

Guinea fowl

Kudu



And that's a wrap: welcome to sunny Queensland - um, in the dark and chilly!

Sydney to Brisbane, Australia TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS Welcome home to Australia and a new experience for us because we had ticked two "y...