Tuesday, June 27, 2023

Safari Day 10: Early game drivers see the dogs!

Hwange to Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe)

Actually surprised that @Mac's phone had the capability to set a 5:15 am alarm - bit it did - and despite very rare use of this timeslot, it dutifully chimed and we untangled ourselves from the netting and added lauwr upon layer upon layer for the morning drive. Dark and cold but you have to up with the predators of you want to catch sight of them.

The Crew at night out in Victoria Falls

Well, the cold certainly didn't improve for the morning drive and neither did the water. We are continuing on with just a lick and a promise but with the alarm shaking us from sleep at 5:15 am can't quite remember if we even had the inclination to try for a shower. Really a day of contrasts - started our day in safari mode - and then progressed to Victoria Falls for what is relative luxury.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS:

A. Ompa-lompa waddled ourselves to a hot pizza concoction and somehow levered ourselves up onto the safari vehicle. A bit of a challenge to get the old joints co-operating in the early morning chill and with the extra padding restricting movement. It was just in that period of first light when we boarded at 6:50 and then returning at 9:50, Certainly a more productive session of spotting animals than the night before.

The clothing rundown went something like this and we are STILL cold on the game drive:

  • leather shoes with merino wool inserts and socks
  • winter weight long pants
  • thermal roll neck top
  • long sleeve shirt
  • puffer jacket
  • wind breaker
  • neck warmer
  • scarf, gloves, woollen hat

Lots to see perched high in the truck on the morning game drive and yes, it was predictably cold in the open moving vehicle. The sun started to have a little warmth about the 8.30 mark and we soon forgot the cold when we stumbled across a new sighting for the crew. Amazing to see how quickly the darkness turns to light.

Dressed in layer upon layer for game drive

Very energised and metaphorically warmed to see the dogs running free in this Wild Dog Conservation area. We found ourselves following along behind two trotting confidently following the dusty path. They seemed to be luring us on! They'd trot on ahead, pause and look back at the vehicle and as we approached would flash their tails and take off again. Big ears and a uniquely patterned coat they were magnificent. They looked just like a dog padding up the path - but once they spotted prey - their entire body shape changed and they became arrow like, turned on a penny, and their elongated body disappeared in unison in hot pursuit. Hope we catch up on more details when we rejoin @Louis.

Following the dogs - we were back row - need @Steve's front row shot

Our game driver even included a toilet stop at the viewing platform which was the turn around point. The viewing platform was a series of steps up to a shade covered lookout. The area was a mess with baboon droppings and showed evidence of the baboons dismantling the railings and stairs and there were baboons everywhere. The watering hole was home to the lazy hippos and out of nowhere a herd of wildebeest materialised as a black carpet at the watering hole. Birds flitted and pecked around the platform - it was "busy."

It was a looped 11 kms out and then 11 kms back and we were soon pulling up stakes and heading to the falls.

Game drive views

New van - very spacious and snooze friendly

B. First time the crew has really been guilty of a snooze in the vehicle but this 270 km trek through the smoke-filled mining and power station belt on a now familiarly rutted road shared with a constant stream of trucks claimed most at some stage. 

C. Arrived at Victoria Falls right in time for lunch at the Lookout Cafe. What a contrast to where we have been recently. Felt like we were in a "thriving metropolis." Perched high on the cliffs, overlooking the gorge of the Zambezi River it felt we were back in civilisation.

Welcome to the comforts of Victoria Falls

The meal presentation here was extraordinary but I think @Roz and @Gill did it best for the mains. They ordered one of each - a skewer of croc and a skewer of ostrich and shared. Presentation is everything and the meat chunks suspended from the hanging contraption added to the taste - especially washed down with "milk" - somehow the merlot was lost in translation - must have been @Gill's kiwi accent. But must admit, @Marg was the envy of the group with her frozen treat.


We had a bird's eye view of the river and Gorge accompanied by the occasional glimpse of the zipliners and flying fox heroes as they bravely screamed their way by.

Empty tummies filled, next stop was to book activities for the following day at Wild Horizons where, coincidentally, all pairs had selected the same activities. 

Farewell to @Innocent again as he delivered us to Amadeus Gardens - our home for two nights. In this guesthouse, complete with open dining area and rooms fanned around a swimming pool, the showers were piping hot, the water plentiful and the wi-fi was racing. 

Daytime trekking and walking was AOK here in Victoria Falls, but at night, the streets were shared with the large animals so taxis and buses were the go! We were only 700 metres out of town but we stayed local with the group. Except @Louis who at last got to belt out some k-s on his run which he finished off with a splash in the pool.

D. Loaded up in two taxis and headed for The Thee Monkeys for dinner and found loads of choices on the menu and at the bar. @Roz and I even popped the cork on a bottle of bubbly- felt like celebrating now that we were in the big smoke.

And it was "smoke" of a different kind. At lunch we had seen the "mist" of the Falls - apparently ""the smoke that thunders" can, on a clear day" in the wet season be seen from 100 kms. We have no need of the long-distance view well be up close and personal tomorrow.




Fun at the Three Monkeys


Needless to say, after the 5,15 start and a day of travel, punctuated with a few jostled cat naps we were glad of the welcoming comfort of Amadeus Gardens and said our farewells to think about the adventures of tomorrow.

Accommodation: Private guest house with spacious and comfortable rooms set around pool. Large bedroom area with storage and desk, toilet and shower ensuite with piping hot water. Breakfast set-up under cover overlooking pool. @Brian was on hand toco-ordinate guests and requests.

Pool view and courtyard setting from breakfast nook

Steps: 7 381

Transport: new van - even more comfortable 290 kns: local taxi service for night time runs

WILDLIFE SPOTTING

Hippo: come out of water like a zombie - take a moment to get their bearings yawn is first warning sign - get out of my way - big deep bellowing sound

Southern ground horn bill - Galoot from lion King - big and strong longest living bird in Africa- 40 years - dominant male bright under 10 years till maturity - Cane-ism - break egg before it hatches - young one eats brother or sister

Great white egret: 

Crowned lap wing

Pied kingfisher: black and white 

White crested helmet: black and white

Giraffe: remains killed by lion scavenged by hyen 3 weeks ago

Impala 

African Jacana- walks on lilies - the Jesus's bird - mates with lots of males - last male incubates the eggs and raises chicks

Coee bird(?) - calling cooee 

Senegal cuckoo

Warthog

Giraffe. : baby 100 kgs

Serval cat - nocturnal -- tawny banded tail - spots and stripes -Flashed across path disappeared camouflaged in talky grass

Long tailed Shrite (?):   looks like willy wagtail

Steinbok - very fast - very smart animal in bush - covers poop to disguise trail from predator

Painted dog - only difference is tail? - saw them hunting - very fast - endangered

Kudu - massive male - most hunted antelope because of its trophy horns 

Crocodile: grows entire life- teeth replaced as lost

Wildebeest. : herd just "appeared" 

Baboons :

Hippo looks innocent but most dangerous animal out here - birds perched on head, massive gaping yarning mouth 

Banana bird

Zebra


Domesticated animals

Goats

Cows

Google Maps Day 10 Victoria Falls



4 comments:

  1. So loving your blog, so I’m reliving my adventure through you x

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Glad you are tagging along - it is your connection with Jenny that got us here! We are loving it.

      Delete
  2. Enjoying g your travels. The falls would be magnificent to see.

    ReplyDelete
  3. So loving this exciting trip with you...such a wonderful adventure!..xx

    ReplyDelete

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