Safari Day 19: A gentle float in a very small boat

Okavango Delta, Botswana

Well, I'm in - now to get out!

Slept so soundly in this high riser rent. Nothing here to disturb the silence of the night except the sounds of the swamp - frogs, insects, fruit bats and the occasional night bird. This island camp is surrounded by an electric fence in an attempt to keep the elephants out. I can understand why - there is so much infrastructure here with everything raised off the ground and built in a true paradise of lush green.

I have woken regularly this trip with thoughts of how special all these experiences have been. It is nothing like staying in the extravagant 5 and 6 star options of first world countries. But it is none the less extremely comfortable and the people we have met are kind and welcoming. Today's accommodation is literally a canvas tent- more like an army tent that I have seen on M.A.S.H draped over a timber frame. An ensuite is accessed through a wooden door and features toilet, basin and shower.

I can't quite find the words to describe what I am trying to explain. It's as if someone experienced a first world stay and then has tried to bring the effect here. There is a deep desire to "please" and ensure that guests are comfortable. So many little things: snow white linen on raised single beds complete with a tasselled runner and origami folded elephant towels; a dual switch light that turns on at the door and then at your bedside table; floor mats underfoot as you swing your feet to the ground; a wooden two door cupboard complete with coat hangers and extra blankets; luggage stand; wicker woven baskets for laundry and that hold perfectly displayed bathroom toiletries; a 4 point usb charging station; individual geysers for hot water; flushing toilet; and even a floor standing fan and a balcony table setting.

Paradise in its simplicity. And must be a master stroke of genius to pull all this together. And I squirm a little thinking of what @Alec may have found when he returned to his lifelong home after our boat ride last night complete with chilled wine and pewter goblets.

Anyway, that's enough of that - it's me early in the morning feeling a little pensive and perhaps a little overindulged as I ponder the possibilities and the realities of the lives of the people who are giving so much each day to provide this moment in time for us. 

TODAYS HIGHLIGHTS

A. The breakfast gathering had a rugby focus this morning with lots of banter around the upcoming Springbok vs Silver Ferns games. Predictions on the winner and the scores were made and @Tom was even told he had to cover up the logo on his tracksuit. @Gill was stirring the pot and confidently predicting a NZ victory by a large margin. When @Mac was asked for his prediction, his response was "What's rugby?" Howled down of course by the avid fans at the table. I am thinking we need to be cheering for the Boks - important to keep our driver and guide happy.

B. We were all present and accounted for and it was a 9 am departure for the Mokoro ride. This is a float and paddle around the waters and reeds of the Okavango delta in a traditional small, narrow, dugout canoe propelled (and balanced) by a "poler." Each small vessel is controlled by a person standing on the back of the boat with a large pole that is dipped into the sand and moves you along.

Safety briefing

I have to say that without the support and patience of The Crew I would not have had the confidence to complete this activity. So glad I did - it was a wonderful 4 hours. And I am confessing that the inelegance of my mount and dismount of the dugout canoe contrasted sharply with the elegance of @Joseph's commentary.

@Joseph was the "captain" of this crew and it was his responsibility to "Lead" the session. We started with an onshore briefing that outlined the "safety" and the "rules" of the trip. It went something like this:

• wear your life jacket
• stay seated and in the boat
• act like a sack of potatoes and sit still - no rocking the boat
• keep your hands in the boat - there are crocodiles in the water
• don't touch anything without asking your "poler"
• if you come head to head with a hippo - stay calm and sit tight - let it pass
• if a spider or frog jumps in the boat - stary calm and let the "poler" know

And armed with the confidence inspiring briefing - it was time to sit down. lean back and relax. Wasn't quite as 1, 2, 3 as that - but we got there. @Alaska safely navigated us through the widened hippo channels and we pulled up regularly as a little raft of mokoros so @Joseph could provide his quiet briefing. Gained insights into:

• geological history and formation of the delta
• importance of the keystone animals in its formation - elephant, hippo and termite
• adaptaton of lots of birds and plants in this watery environment
• importance of floating reeds as an ecosystem
• use made of plants by local people
• village life and insights - influence of changing world on delta
• new methods for creating mokoro
• provided demonstrations on making jewellery, hats and a lily necklace

Went ashore on one of the islands and had the opportunity to walk with @Joseph to learn more about the formation of these oases in the waterways of the delta. Even got to stand on one of the little vantage points to try and see out to the horizon. Shorties didn't have much luck - but @Mac certainly got a good view.

Lunch was on one of the many islands in the delta. This termite mound, covered in elephant dung over time. supported its very own little microenvironment. The boys turned over a mokoro and repurposed the chairs to make our own little island picnic spot. @Joseph carefully divided the group into males and females for "number 1s" and handed out toilet paper asking for it to be returned after use to his collection bag. After that little "non dry" run, he offered each person in the group the opportunity to take the seat and shovel for "number 2s" again offering toilet paper that needed to be returned after use. Um, no takers!

Top of the world

We sat comfortably perched on the boat and loved our bread rolls, oranges and water. All simple and all very special.

Back in the mokoro (no improvement in the elegance of the landing) and it was much quicker return trip - no stops this time.

Farewell and thank you to the team. They had walked 13 ks from the village this morning to get here for the activity and were now on their return trek home of a good day's work. @Joseph's story was inspirational. He is the mentor of this "club" and provides employment opportunities for the young people. He is a strong believer in education and works with preschool and primary school children to build their understanding of and love for the Delta in the hope that his village can benefit from the growing tourism industry.

D. The countdown to dinner was a relaxing affair with people finding nooks and crannies in and outside the guest house. A bit of reading, a chat and for @Louis a dip in the waters of the Delta. Gathered around the outside fire again as the sun set and the big topic of conversation was "will there be potatoes?" They were so good last night we definitely want a rerun.

@Louis dippin and chillin

And "yes" they were there, piled in all their roasted and crispy glory and were the perfect side for the roast port and apple sauce that was on tonight's menu. @Louis always has more stories and more information for us at dinner so we all tuned in and enjoyed a laugh at the Creator's story of how the poor old ugly warthog was created as we washed it down with the traditional South African Melva Pudding. 

Definitely not "roughing" it

There was another couple at the table next to us and at the end of the warthog story they came over and told us that they had been eavesdropping and had been hanging on every word that @Louis shared. Said they don't normally do that - but found it all so interesting and entertaining they just couldn't help themselves. Reassured our group that we were so fortunate to have a guide with so much knowledge and passion. And don't we know that. Rejoice every day that we have our very own walking encyclopaedia with us to help to unravel the mystery and magic of what we are seeing. Always asking "How does he know that?"

Strolled home along the raised boardwalk dropping each group off as we progressed and settled into our very special raised tent nestled amongst the reeds of the Okavango Delta. Another special day.

PS I think I have solved the mystery of the showers. I have loved the hot showers and appreciate them in all their forms. But @Mac has had more success than me. The majority of the shower heads have been the water saving type with a limited number of very fine jets that emanate from the outer ring of the shower head. At 6'2" @Mac is getting a concentrated circular spray on his head or neck or shoulders At 5'2 and 1/8th its like I'm standing g under an umbrella and the individual jets are splayed out and missing me. I almost have to do a maypole dance and run around in a ring to get single sprays of water. I wonder if @Louis would lend me the footstool we have been using to get in the vehicle. That'd do the trick.

PPS Congrats to @Anth and @Bekah - officially home owners! 

Wildlife Spotting:

Jackalberry a bridge to island for primates

Small take care island for island tour - single file - organised in height order so everyone can see

Walking path of elephants - ground nesters will be off path - receive water and get seasonal flooding - leave potholes so advisable to keep eyes open  -Feeding habits by knocking trees - advisable to not step on dead woods - fruits and flowers please avoid touching let Joseph know - island formed elephant poop - acacia non thorn - keep away from acacia to avoid to hook on body or clothes - 

Wild date palm - feathery - very small fruits - 10 -15 m - edible - evergreen naturally found

Wild fan palm - peach fruit size - eat fibre amd find nut - use fir drawings. Ad jewellery 20 to 30 metres - elephanr migration - useful for community- boiled and dried .. can change colour and weave - male alcohol amd wine - add honey or sugar fir fermentation to delta wine

Poison apple - don't touch - bitter taste. Protection of ploughed fields- burn dung with Chilli

Hippos - marks - female takes baby male hippo to edge of group to raise separately from group - dominant male would kill them - males steal females to create own herd - hear hippos with strong blow as they surface - touvh mud and produce bubbles to show direction - Grazer - only ? - Creator said "hippo is just a vegetarian - hippo sprays poops sp other animals can check for evidence of bones - no we are not satisfied - keep hippo yawning so you can check mouth for bones!"

Jackalberry a bridge to island for primates

Umbrella thorned acacia - defend from browsers by thorns, kudu and giraffe delicately pick leaves - produce chemical - feel disturbance and release chemical to turn to bitter taste and cam be transported on wind to notify other trees - animals feed downwind to avoid taking response

Wild Sage- body covering or funerary/mortuary - wet sand from hippo trail, put inside house, and add layer of sage to prevent destruction from flies - gives 3 days for family to arrive

Natural mosquito repellent - crushed and use a mosquito repellent or throw on fire

New born child - male it soft and collect flower and leaves for sleeping pillow for child - take sage and rub into body to disguise human smell - leopards use similar hinting method - Stem used to construct fishing kit in shallow lagoon by women -Roots used to give to affected person with sexually transmitted disease - 

Martins- tiniest bird

Bitter wild cucumber