Wednesday, June 21, 2023

Safari Day 4: Heading north in Kruger to Punda Maria

Letaba Rest Camp to Punda Maria Rest Camp (Kruger National Park, South Africa)

No helpers checking out the bed tonight! Loving camping.

Woke refreshed after a great night's sleep and after a quick re-assemble of the belongings made our way through the early half-light to stand outside the closed restaurant tapping into the wi-fi. Only a quick snatch and grab to try and upload because we had to meet up for a pre-Safari light snack before hitting the road.

Read the bush newspaper with @Louis this morning to start the day. The guides check the tracks, the dung and the weather to catch up on what's been happening - who visited who, what animals are around, who's cheating on who and who got murdered and who committed murder. That's handy because we have not had a chance to catch up on the real thing. No idea of what is happening in the world, actually can't really tell you what day of the week it is.

Our front seat co-pilot @Del took it very seriously today - had the map out checking directions and even noticed that we sailed on by a turn off! It was intentional by @Louis to take an alternate route but good spotting by @Del!

co-pilot responsibilities for @Del - directions and animal spotting

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS:

A. First leg of Safari saw us progress at moderate pace on full alert heading for Mopani Rest Camp named after the prolific Mopani tree (bright green with butterfly shaped leaves) for brunch. Trekking along slowly and taking advantage of close-up sightings of animals and birds that we are starting to recognise. So many sightings to start the day. Couldn't help but be impressed at the Mopani Rest Camp with the giant boabob tree (a succulent really, filled with water) AND the brunch that @Louis managed to whip up while we strolled the camp.




B. Second leg of safari was a continuation of the northward trek that took us across the Tropic of Capricorn and we were rewarded with lots of sightings. Highlight had to be the 40 strong herd of elephants split on both sides of the road while crossing. A young bull wasn't too happy with our vehicle and decided to flex his testosterone muscles - lifted his trunk, spread his ears, trumpeted and made an impressive mock run side-on to the vehicle. @Louis called his bluff, thumped on the side of #Magogo and called firmly "go." The young bull was happy to retreat and we edged a little further forward and waited quietly for more of the herd to cross. Very, very happy his bluff was called because I think @Mac and @Steve might have taken one tusk each for the team and been skewered right through the forehead.

How about a tusk in the forehead?

A long way from home - but crossing the Tropic of Capricorn

Arrived at Shingwedzi Camp for coffee and refreshments at the end of a 2 hour drive. @Mac always keen for a coffee and I was actually delighted to see the ladies. I am not alone in my quest for toilet stops so that is comforting - as always in Africa - safety in numbers.

Starting the day with tai chi with @Roz and @Dell

It has been an informative day with everyone's contributions - we all bought the "Kruger" book as a reference point and animal checklist as suggested by @Louis and we have been trying to tick and flick but @Gill had seemed to be lagging behind. We understand why now - unfortunately she was a little over ambitious in her choice and picked up the version written in Africaans.

All lost in translation!

This story does have a happy ending though. @Roz had the brainchild that all the stores sold the same products and they were all managed by the Sans Park - and suggested maybe they would swap it. Good call - cause that is exactly what happened and now @Gill has secured the English version (she is a kiwi though, so still might be a wee bit foreign.) 

@Gill purchased a packet of Chilli Biltong to celebrate and from all reports it was a very salty, more-ish treat. I think after having the wrong book for the first two days @Gill has gone native!

C. What a crazy start to our last 80 km of the day - immediate sightings of hippos, giraffe, gazelles, zebra and impala and even encountered a huge elephant in the middle of the road holding up traffic both ways. All interspersed with the most entertaining demonstration by @Gill of snoring tape. Basic concept is tape your lips together and apparently it is a sure fired cure for snoring. (Later at dinner, I brought a strip of tape for everyone to "seal their lips" - @Gill loved our team photo dedicated to her.)

Crew testing the snoring solution
 
This final 80 km travelled today is the last long haul we have through Kruger so the crew definitely maintained their focus. Had our afternoon encounter with a big elephant - but this time he was more interested in the trailer than the car - changed his mind though and ambled away. 

Have decided that "mentos" are the sweets if the group. Someone always seems to produce a roll to share - keeps us alert and helps the kms to continue to roll on.

Dutifully drinking our way through supplies because we meet up with @Margaret and @Tom at 2 pm at the Camp Gate tomorrow afternoon. We all know how much @Mac loves to manage his "rotations" - he can't possibly wear his shirts or undies out of their turn order. HIs skills have been called on to manage our seating rotation - he'll probably spend a wakeless night visualising the possibilities for #Magogo to accommodate moving from 6 to 8 passengers. 

Coping well with the delights of camping. Poppy Paul could fix that walk way.

Wildlife Spotting:

Quite amusing because you are on high alert all of the time. Being just a little too keen you are tempted by meerkat tree stumps, hippo rocks and crocodile logs. Been tricked a few times - sometimes embarrassingly so. Got a little kick out of @Louis's "goose bump" moment of the day - he was so excited, grabbed his head, thumped the steering wheel and even had a little moan when he made his first sighting of a Caracal in Kruger. Priceless.

Wildebeest: from two words in Dutch that mean wild beast (@Dick you are on) - males were fighting in a dust cloud - an implausibility of wildebeest

Impala: local word for "red" - bachelor groups of males are "the losers" kicked out of the herd by the dominant male

Bush chicken: first bird you hear in the morning

Hippos: can stay under water 6 mins - mate under water, baby suckles under water - female dung in ball - male spread 3 metres - distinct track of hippo highway - travel up to 40 km a night to feed - 1.5 % of body weight eaten each day - interesting digestive system (unique)

Water buck: 

Fungus growing termite: very fertile soil (women in Zimbabwe eat dirt when pregnant) maintain mound at 52 degrees - caste system - king and queen - can live for 50 years - workers blind and sterile - soldiers defend nest blind - communicate by tapping - 80% oriented to West so good marker for wayfinding when lost 

Kudu: animal God is most happy with - 250 kgs - three spots under chin are the imprint of God's fingers where he held the kudos and told it to "go well" - can jump 5 metres -  

Corrie(?) Bustard: heaviest flying bird

Monkey: prolific at camps

Water buffalo- Dagha (?) boys - roll in mud then rub against trees to remove insects - enemy is the lion - horned helmet withstand bullet - charge each other at full speed and make resounding crack - changed name from Cape Buffalo  no longer found in cape) so renamed African Buffalo -female cape very soft - 11 months gestation - Gang of buffalo (because of the way they look after each other)

Elephants: need to come to river every day for water - can slide down steep river banks on bottom (I can relate to that)- large flapping ears - 20% of body surface is ears - wrinkly skin captures and holds moisture for cooling - communicate with sonar signals which are detected through the pads of their feet with a range of 49 kms - 20 kgs brain large frontal lobe that's why an elephant never forgets - has different length tusks and a predominant "side" similar to our "handedness" and then opposite side of the brain more dominant

Zebra: any animal with forward facing eyes is a predator; each black and white stripe has light brown stripe in between; baby is presented with both sides is presented with both sides of mother after birth - like scanning a barcode

Squirrel: tiny - frequently seen darting across the road

Community nest spider: shared nest and share any food captured - small nest hold 100s of thousands of spiders - nest looks like ball of netting suspended in tree about size of fist

Warthog: seem to regularly be partnered with the wildebeest and zebra

Red billed ox picker: Bite tick off - keep wounds clean 

Caracal (lynx)- rare - red skin - solitary - maximum 7 kgs - uses stealth and hearing - back legs longer - able to jump and catch birds mid air

Roan antelope: only 120 in entire park - very nice to see - both male and female have horns - very long ears - 120-180 kgs - looked so strong

Common duiker: means "to dive" eats meat when nutritionally distressed - solitary existence comes together for mating

Egyptian goose: very common

Giraffe: biggest heart of all mammals- high volume of blood - have valve to control flow of blood to head when drinking - when stand up need to flick the head to release the valve and reverse blood flow. Chuck Norris of the bush - can kick backwards and forwards

Secretary bird: very long legs, step on snake. Can fly but spends most of its time on ground - leave the head - on South African coat of arms

Helmeted Guinea fowl: so many crossing road - red meat - co-operate breeder only a few produce babies and the rest help raise them - insect eaters - low range flyer - roost in trees - feed white maize they turn white

Spotted Hyena: higher success rate at hunting than lion. Hunt more than they scavenge - belly full of food generates heat so needs to cool off in water - saw one covered in mud after its soak- no bones and skulls scattered around because Hyena and other scavengers take care of the disposal

Cape Glossy Starling: joined us for brunch - bright orange eye and sheened blue/black plummage

Boabob: world's largest succulents

We haven't seen one yet but random leopard fact - if you are in the bush and smell a sweet popcorn odour - BEWARE - it means leopard in the area it is the smell of its urine - about 2000 in park

Accommodation: Punda Maria Rest Camp: Punda Maria tented camps. Structured tents (timber frame, "fake" canvas walls, netted window with roll up flaps to cover the windows and screens), raised off the ground that are perched at the end of a boardwalk. Same general idea of large sleeping area, walk through storage, shower and toilet. This one had massive balcony and outdoor kitchen. Full size fridge in bedroom (away from impish monkeys no doubt.) Punda Maria a little older than previous camp but just as comfortable.

What's on the menu: : Quick starters in camp (rusks, fruit, coffee, malaria medication followed by brunch - bacon, tomato French toast with cereals yoghurt the sweetest papaw and am apple and banana fruit salad mix washed down with juices and tea and coffee. Dinner was at safari tent 5 with @Louis with a predinner demonstration of some interesting cocktails of South Africa (complete with Springbok actions.) Very tasty spaghetti bolognaise with a side of hollowed out squash filled with creamed corn and cheese (my fav!) All created and served hot on a burner in a series cast iron pots.

Steps: 7 042

Weather: pleasant morning under cloud filled sky. Day warmed up but cloud cover followed all day.

Transport#Magogo (getting packing option for trailer, roof and inside under control) Departure 7:36, arrival at 4:40 170 kms



Google Maps Day 4 Letaba to Punda Maria



3 comments:

  1. All I can say is WOW!! What an absolute cracker of an adventure we are having....thankyou so much for taking us with you. love, love, love it! (And you!)...xxx.

    ReplyDelete
  2. What an exciting trip! Much braver than me haha

    ReplyDelete
  3. What a fabulous experience and adventure Stay safe😘

    ReplyDelete

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