Tuesday, July 11, 2023

Safari Day 24: Done and dusted (literally dusted!)

Tuli Game Reserve (Botswana)

Woke at 5:50 to the gentle tap tapping of RAIN on the canvas roof of the tent. Took a little while to make sense of the noise and actually held our breath thinking that the game drive might be cancelled. Did learn later that "game drives are never cancelled" - so I guess we are counting out lucky starts that  it was 10 minutes of sprinkles - can only imagine in my worst nightmares what a cold AND wet game drive might feel like.

All smiles for morning drive - girls admitting that hot water bottles are an added layer 

But that 1 000 spits of rain was over before it had even begun and we were busy layering up for the morning drive. No denying that it was cold, but with the wind abated and a covering of cloud, it was nothing like last night.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS:

Left our laundry bag on the bed, grabbed a light breakfast and it was all aboard for the 7 am getaway. Main goal this morning was to find the brown hyena. Long shaggy brown coat with a stunning white face. @Joe did all the magic in the vehicle and crawled by the dens but did not see hide nor hair of the hyena.

Tracking early morning, up and down dry riverbeds

Managed to stumble across two female lions catching some sunlight and did see them perk to attention and stalk off into the distance as a herd of impala approached. They melted into that woodland - no hurry - just quietly and stealthily took a wide circle to head off their next take-away.

Just waiting for their "take away" impala to arrive (McDonald's M on the impala's bottom always gets a laugh) - the lions literally melted into that bushland and became totally invisible

The mopani woodland here looks as if a hedge trimmer has been through. The elephants seem to trim them to an even height and eat and shape them to a stumpy bush all separated by the dusty path they make as they move through the trees. And until the elephant moves, believe it or not, amongst all that shadow you don't really see them until they move.

Hedge trimmers

Still in awe of how quiet these giants are and how slowly they seem to move. Their giant feet are placed silently in the dusty surface and they are surrounding you one moment and then have glided by to completely disappear. 

At one stage the path was covered by a log that had been removed by an elephant. Meant @Joe had to reluctantly get out of the vehicle to remove it in this area of closed woodland. The perfect stalking area for the lions. Apparently, in the vehicle, we present as a large, unthreatening and complete outline for predators - and are ignored. Out of the vehicle, on two legs, we become prey. He was very purposeful, but very slow. He scanned all the nearby stunted mopane and was agile in his re-entry to the truck. Was unnerving how watchful and cautious he was - I'm glad he didn't call for volunteers.

This was an up down gully - front of vehicle going up and back still going down - roller coaster. The brownacriss windscreen is @Joe's "big gun"

He did find us a safe place to stop for a cup of tea and a bushie bushie. A wide-open space, perched above the dry river beds @Joe and @Louis had great vision in all directions and @Joe had the gun on hand - which he said he could access and fire within 20 seconds. I can only imagine the paperwork involved if a tourist were hurt - so do believe they were committed. And just saying - the bushie bushie options are being taken closer and closer to the vehicle - no wandering off here to get that extra bit of privacy.

Bushie bushie with clear views and not much coverage for privacy 

Plenty of wildlife to keep us entertained for our three-and-a-half-hour drive and then it was back to camp for brunch. And what a treat. @Roz's dreams came true as @Kennedy whipped up a batch of FatCakes (magwinya)! They did not disappoint - were served HOT straight from his pot of oil and were filled with salad and tuna. Very versatile. @Kennedy had mentioned that the staff would share in the batch - um, he underestimated our enthusiasm - we devoured every one on offer.

Eating FatCakes - because we can.

Free time to watch the animals visit the water hole or to sit in the sun and thaw out. We were keen to hit the shower, and after letting the water run for 10 minutes (we timed it) the hot water eventually arrived and it was amazing! So much dust on these drives it feels like a cleansing.

Afternoon tea at 3.00 set us up for the evening drive and we were all wearing our maximum layers for the last game drive of the trip. Left in high spirits and comfortably warm this evening  we did the laps in the daylight, to the setting sun and finally by spotlight.

Spotlighting

Instead of heading home at 7 pm @Joe directed the vehicle towards the light of a series of blazing fires in the distance. This was a large cleared area, marked by a ring of lanterns, with tables set under the stars. Out farewell dinner. @Kennedy and the team had set up a bar, the long dining table, a server and camp chairs around the fire.

Of course, bushie bushie  was till the go here and did have a laugh. Definitely not permitted to go beyond the border of the campsite and the far side of the safari vehicle was the "shelter." @Joe had been stopping regularly and marking his territory - there was a line of little territory markers down the side of the vehicle tonight - glad I had my headlamp on - definitely would want to put my foot in it! Think I would have confused the trackers with the male and female count - #Sheweena makes it look like there is an extra male in camp.

Dinner in the middle of the bush - farewell

Our New Zealand Choir ladies offered their duet, @Louis told stories and belted out the South African anthem and conversation and a three-course dinner were completed with the billion stars of the night sky as the hits of the evening. Easily spotted the Southern Cross and did give our minds permission to wander to thoughts of "home" - so close now.

Arrived in camp and were delighted to see that our transport option for tomorrow had arrived, escorted by @Joe safely to our tents to the background rumble of the lions tonight; hot water bottle and bed turn down accompanied by the African Coffee Cream as a night cap and now just one more stop before we pull up stakes and say farewell to Africa.

Accommodation: Serolo Safari Camp

Wildlife Spotting:

Black chested snake eagle

Elephant: border crossing elephants- swim over Limpopo at night to feed but return in day because if hunters higher ground

Stork saddle bill largest stork - 7 kgs -Male red eye, female yellow

Jackal - on yesterdays kill

Warthog: so named because of warty growths near tusk; male has two on each side which offer protection when fighting, females have one

Sage

Buffalo weaver

Green pigeon

Parrot

 Namaqua dove - long tail

Wildebeest 

 Zebra 

Giraffe

Sycamore tree

Chinese light bushman's candle

Mopane woodlands

Quelea red billed damage crops - large flocks flying in unison 

Klipspringer

Steenbok 

Nile Crocodile

White Crested helmet shrike - flock, flies through spider Web to collect Web for nest

Batelier eagle - drunk, trapeze walker

Nala Berry tree huge

Caper bush low round mound hide kill

Shephards bush

Eland

Guinea fowl - tough meat because they do so much walking, red meat

Lifer black stork

Tropical boubou: black, mimics

Lilac Crested roller

Water buck

Tree euphobia- looks like candelabra, extremely poisonous, black rhino and porcupine eat, - if touched causes rash on skin, can blind - white latex poisonohs

Squirrel 

Verreayx Giant eagle owl

Lion: stalking impala so quiet cover so much ground

Wildebeest

Corrie bustard

Impala

Dove

Bat eared fox: insect eating - ear to ground to hear movement

Baboon

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