Safari Day 18: An introduction to the paradise of the Delta

Maun to Okavango Delta

An introduction to the Delta

Leaving from Maun, the town of short reeds, and making our way north to the delta or as, @Louis describes it - "paradise." The three tribes that call it home roamed the area without leaving a footprint. Now settled in Maun but their ancestors have left 4 500 rock paintings (lions, rhino, eland) behind as a legacy.

Maun Lodge breakfast to start the day

In 1980 this area exploded with a population reaching 58 000 people and even with this total it is still classed as a village today with its associated tribal connections.

The Thamalakane River (1 700 km) is dry here in Maun because water has been channelled from Okavango Delta villages where the water rights have been bought by China in order to feed their mining enterprises. We saw lots of construction on the drive in yesterday and the tankers and equipment all had Chinese character marking and script on them. Chinese investment is high here in search of minerals - especially copper and diamonds! Can't help but wonder at the continued exploitation of third world countries.

Also crossed the dry sandy river Shashe (?)that we had visited earlier in the trip, we had viewed it at the Confluence, and it was still a dry sandy stretch here.

We were travelling in the domestic area and the Buffalo Fence separates us from the wildlife area. Originally this physical barrier stretched east to west across Botswana to separate the cattle from the wild animals. Today, it is a more concentrated 200 km stretch running through the delta and isn't very well maintained.

Bus views - still in rotation

The elephants "insist" on maintaining their migratory paths and the big elephants can actually climb over the fence. The mothers push large trees over to topple the fence in order to give access to their young. Also a similar fence in Namibia - to prevent spread of bovine tuberculosis (spread by cloven hoofed animals, buffalo) and sleeping sickness.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS:

A. Started our drive with stops for top up of personal purchases and some cash. Got a real taste of "That’s Africa"  Only one out of 5 ATMs were working and we were 5th, 6th and 7th in the growing queue to use the single machine. The gentleman at the head of the queue was sss--oooo slow he had people behind him shuffling and getting restless. @Roz even risked a hushed "Come on, hurry up."

Took a drive through downtown Maun which was a huge conglomeration of large shopping centres marking the intersections. The streets were lined with temporary makeshift stalls of the local entrepreneurs selling anything they can for a profit.

Plenty of petrol stations and car washes and fuel prices are lower here. So much dust and rubbish. Jumbled strands and piles of plastic dominate the scene. The impression from the outside suggests a lack of interest and disregard for surroundings - but once you move indoors it is all order and organisation with lots of checking, double checking and even cross checking.

Life outside of Maun is based upon a tribal system with a chief. Villages had meeting places where disputes are settled. The small houses are built quickly and completed as it is believed to be bad luck to leave it half finished.

Needed to carry two pairs of shoes again in case we are asked to dip our shoes as part of the prevention of cattle disease.

Passed through  ???? which is a mining town in Botswana's copper belt.  About 6 000 residents all in small besser block looking square homes about the size of our garden shed. These small buildings are often grouped together in a fenced compound and is home to extended families.

The open cast mine here is partly owned by Botswana and China. It too seems dirty, dry sand and dusty and the river bed is a wide dry sandy stretch.

Just through the town an oncoming police vehicle flashed their lights indicating that we needed to pull over and show our papers to authenticate/verify our car rental. @Louis calmy interrupts his microphone commentary and produces the required paperwork, with a smile and personal conversation, and we are on our way. As always, his charm offensive works.

Passed through the town of Herare/ Ghanzi/Seth where residents still practise their traditional beliefs, and the Herero ladies are in colourful traditional costumes. Elaborate long dress, large head dress to mimic the horns of cattle and with bottom teeth missing to indicate they have had children. In traditional times these were broken out with a rock and then a mopane branch was used to stop the bleeding and numb the pain. Today, they can be surgically removed. Such a better plan - um, I don't think so.

Traditional dress

Main transport is a Kalahari Ferrari- the Donkey cart - a cart drawn by 2, 3, 4 or 5 donkeys. Passed many on the drive and there appeared to be no shortage of donkeys wandering around seemingly ownerless.

Tsau with about 3 00 people, still tribal and lead by a chief, was another small town on the way. Smaller homes, more sand and still home to the Herero ladies. Saw a number of ladies with their very elaborate headdress here walking along road.

@Louis announced that there was a High Tea on offer at 3.30 at the lodge so we cracked open open our bought lunch so we would have room later on.

Darn, left the bitumen (mustn't be Chinese mining interest out here) and traversed the last forty or so on potholed and corrugated stretches. Was hard pressed to find an appropriate LAV-a-TREE for a suitable bushie bushie but eventually spotted one lonely divider and @Louis sent men to the left and womem to the right (because they always are.) Always guaranteed of a clean toilet stop in the great outdoors. @Gill's glasses continue to be elusive and keep running away. Had to search the wee Acacia "just to be sure" before relocating them in the vehicle!



B. Botswana is perched on Kalahari Desert with powdered sand - its name literally translates to land of great thirst with as little as .5 of a millimetre of rain per year.

The formation of the Great Eastern Valley Rift Valley was the influence in the creation of the desert - the superb lake disappeared into the sand - and the delta was left behind surrounded by the desert. 11 million cubic litres falls through the pan handle and the very low gradient of the land meaning fhe delta fans out as the lifeblood if this central area supporting human population as well as the plants and the massive diversity of the migrations. Only 2% of the water actually finds itself in the delta - the rest lost to transpiration, evaporation and use by plants. And here is that name again - David Livingston visited the area on his way to The Falls.

Poison! Stay clear.

Headed for the rendezvous with the lodge provided 4x4 s at 2.30 with a plan to decant the luggage and the passengers for the last section of the journey. This was through a soft Kalahari sand covered road. They only vehicle that was at at meetup point were two stray donkeys.

That was a rough ride in though. @Mac and I had swapped seats and he took the seat towards that back and then rode it home cowboy style. One hand clutched the seat in front and he waved the other in the air rodeo style claiming he didnt want to be disqualified. The sign to the park entrance said  "Put on your kidney belt and your sports bra." They do have a sense of humour here.

Found the truck to transport through Delta

Did find the truck - literally a big truck - and it was all aboard for the transit through the sandy stretches of water of the lakes. First impression is of a dark, shallow water.  Reeds and low-lying islands, donkeys and horses standing in the shallows grazing and drinking. But closer inspection revealed crystal clear water - you could see every line on the sandy bottom.

Short reeds, lilies, rutted sandy paths and lots of water was our highway to the dense foliage that marked our destination to paradise. What a surprise. Here, on a knoll of sand, was the entrance way to an expansive set of above ground walkways, buildings and tents that comprised our accommodation for the night.

We were welcomed at reception by a staff member with a list. This quietly spoken lady worked through her hand written notes to give us the safety briefing, to explain the layout and facilities, give instructions to unravelling the mystery of the hot water geyser and the all important laundry arrangements. Armed with these vitals and a key, we were again gasping with surprise at the simple beauty of out structured canvas tent with ensuite perched with a view right on the edge of the reed filled lagoon.

A green oasis in the Kalahari Desert

C. Took off at 4 pm for the afternoon and @Alec was our guide, driving slowly around the lagoon. Hard to believe we are in the middle of a desert. So lush and green in every direction you look. In the peak of the wet season, this water level is 1 metre higher.  At the moment we are cruising on a lagoon that is about 7 metres deep.

Papyrus reeds everywhere.

The small boat with just 11 seats puttered around the edge of the islands for two hours. There's an esky on board to chill your pre-ordered drinks - which were then sipped in pewter goblets as @Alec filled on the details of the landscape and its plant life and birds.

Got back to shore in time to relax in the lounge area (all timber and high thatched ceilings, fascinating artwork amd views of the lagoon), before assembling at dusk around the fire.

Have to mention dinner because it was "just like home." A superb lamb roast, plenty of greens and the best baked potato we have ever tried complete with mint sauce.

The boardwalk stroll back to the tent, under the gentle glow of overhead lanterns, was the perfect end to a very relaxing introduction to this paradise in Botswana.

Accommodation:Ngama Island Lodge

Transport:: 20 seater Mercedes- no trailer - @Louis says easier to manoeuvre without a trailer and he needs a different class of licenseto drive this one. Air condoned- plenty of room. 340 kms Departure: 9.15

Wildlife Spotting: 

Night water lily: sharp edges, opens full at nighttime - dig the roots and eat - can pull out with pole and use as drinking straw, also make decorative items - hippos gorge on them

Common reed: like our pampas grass

Day lily: smoother edges

Marsh Harrier

Ostrich: female lays 1.5 kg eggs equivalent of 24 chicken eggs. Can lay 20 eggs  so hard, need hammer to break, bushmen used it for water storage and to make jewellery, very rich - Lions and ostrich make similar sound at night - frightening. Males legs turn bright LEDs- folds head on backside and dnacea - if female is interested she lays down in front of him. Can lay unfertilised eggs - eat egg shells I'd calcium deficient

Brown snake eagle:  right yellow eye, thick covering on legs to stop bites,

maleiky kingfisher: saw him fishing , hit the water hard, missed a few times and then grabbed one, smacked it on reed and then ate it - nest on the river bank

Otter: had to be quick to spot - ripple of movement gave him away

Ground Squirrel- with big bushy tail, live under ground, use their tail to puff and make bigger, stand under theor own tail for shade

Malibu storks: means hermit or viucless - cannot make a sound with  black legs in winter, white legs in winter (poops on legs to warm them up)

Sycamore Fig- yellow trunk

Morollo palm: the fan palm - make everything from that palm - can use taking from other plants to add colour and decoration

Papyrus: floating, not easy to see hippo channels; use to make sleeping mats - locals collect and tie with string from morning glory and trade in villages; anyone can harvest - antelope eats flowers 

Bee eater: green and yellow

Morning glory: collects to make string

Snake bird or African Darter:  distinctive neck eats frogs and fish - spears his catch

Buttrn: a clicking call

Sengalia caru- - an acacia - curled seed pods - excellent firewood, seeds used as lucky charms, used as instrument, grows in desert can't kill them because tap roots extend 500 metres down - perennially green, favourite by giraffe - pollen from this tree sticks to giraffe eyelash (no bees, too dry)

Termite mound - prolific, no plants around them because salty and poisonous, ladies eat when pregnant - Fungus growing termites - important in delta - 70% of landcreated by termites. Apparently very tasty - like a strawberry. When they swarming, locals collect them and eats them. Can use termites as bush stitches

Elephants: essential in the delta - flagship species - disperses seeds, keeps vegetation growth under co trolley, provides fertile for the soil

Cuckold

Snouted termite: Fungus growing termites in small low  mounds

Mosquito: killed my first one in the van today - it only takes one bite from one mosquito - The Crew still diligently taking malaria tabs; got mozzie protection on - Maun hotel provided both insect repellent and condoms - make of that what you will

Jackal:

Goshawk

Epulated fruit bat: only males make a noise - white tuft on ear - only bat that sees in colour

Poison  Star Apple: @Louis collected from side of road and outlined how poisonous this was and how it is boiled and used for snake bite and other pain relief in small quantities. Must remove seeds - go yellow when ripe

Botswana Domesticated animals (if you hit a livestock you are responsible for compensating family)

Cows: if livestock is taken by lion- replaced by government; thorny fences packed with lavender (deters tse flies) created to protect cattle from lions. Leopards and hyena

Goat

Chickens

Donkey - Donkeys are disappearing because of Asian belief in the medicinal powers of a jelly derived from the skin of the Donkey. Cross breeding with horse and zebra ;  legs of two donkeys tethered together when new Donkey enters ownership, helps them to learn boundary of their owner's property

Dogs: very poorly treated and in bad condition but extremely loyal to their owner.- also used for hunting small birds and animaz for fresh meat

Horse

Google Maps Day 18 Moremi to Okavango Delta