Safari Day 5: Broken down vehicles, protests, roadblocks and detours- "It's Africa."

Punda Maria to Leokwe Rest Camp (Mapungubwe National Park, South Africa)

Snug as a bug in a rug overnight and perfectly cocooned in the tent. Repacked and reorganised the bags so that we only have one backpack between us to save room in the vehicle. Bushman's breakfast, complete with visiting bird, loaded #Magogo and we were ready for the final 10 km departure through Kruger and then about 300 km north to Mapungubwe.

The "crew" is complete found them.

Noticed a drop in temperature this morning - a cool change had blown through. @Mac and @Del were wearing shorts but the rest of us were layered up.

Went for a stroll and congregated outside the shop to wait for @Louis to pick us up after loading #Magogo. Because we are such astute animal spotters, we all looked up in unison as we spotted a flash of green pop out from behind a building - it was @Del doing a great impersonation of a harried speed walker. And then, in hot pursuit, were two gangly, lopping baboons! Apparently, they had had a little face off down the path and @Del opted to high tail it back to @Steve. And of course, the re-tell has enhanced the story and now the baboons are at least the size of King Kong. After that heart stopping encounter, I really think @Steve should have bought the hat!

Were no sooner in #Magogo than we had an update from @Marg and @Tom. Oh dear, can you believe it, they had barely left Johannesburg and their transport vehicle broke down. We were receiving updates on the progress of accessing a new vehicle and of course @Louis was busy rescheduling the rendezvous. As @Roz said "We have all had setbacks getting here." How true. They were at Johannesburg waiting for pickup the day before for two hours, amd today it was a wait on the side of the road for a couple of hours for a rescue vehicle. I hope they think this effort is worth it when they finally meet up with us - I'm sure they will.

TODAY'S HIGHLIGHTS

A. Started the day with last safari drive. Not too much action this morning because there was a breeze and apparently the larger animals just sit down. The breeze blowing across the grass makes it difficult for them to spot their predators.

So mamy elephant encounters

Spot the giraffe in the top picture.

Salt Pan Mountains ringed the highway as we left the Park and rejoined the highway heading further north and west at speed. Out of the park meant townships and towns, unfinished houses from the most grand to simple pieces of tin, cars, minibus taxis and trucks, trucks and trucks (in all states of disrepair) and domestic animals (goats, cattle and chicken.) People were going about their daily lives - open markets offering the staples, family members wheeling barrows to the river to fill containers with water or lined up with containers at the single village tap, others balancing tied bundles of sticks on their head for firewood. And all once again, pervasively and continuously covered in the hazy pall of a civilisation that relies on fire.

So many stall holders - timber, fruit and veggies stalls and laden braais all looking for a sale. And bizarrely a proliferation of driving schools and car washes. Cars, trucks, buses, traffic lights, blaring horns, dodging and swerving and jockeying for position. All chaotic after the tranquillity of the bush drive.

Ran into our first protest - a roadblock constructed with branches across the road. It was the main thoroughfare, and the blockade was lined with protesters armed with rocks. This resulted in huge lines of buses. cars and trucks and #Magogo AND trailer, making u-turns in very crowded conditions. The protest was all about the government not fulfilling their promise to bring electricity and water to the homes in this municipality.

Team effort on co-pilot duty for @Mac in dodging the protests.

Nobody - not even the biggest trucks were prepared to risk it. We made two runs at it in the hope it would peter out and we could get through, with tricky manoeuvres to do our u-turns. It was just too dangerous to even think of making a run for it. Relied on @Louis's home base team to plot an alternate route for us which they did offering a 40 km detour. @Louis opted to pull up beside one of the bigger transport vehicles, wound down his window and spoke to the local driver. There was a long line of vehicles, trucks and taxis veering of the main road and taking a right turn onto a dirt road and he decided to join the locals and take a rutted, narrow dirt road to loop around and bypass the protesters. It worked a treat - our friendly truck driver even tooted his horn and waved us goodbye as we popped back out onto the bitumen. Nice use of local resources @Louis, saved us the 40 kms.

Time to bring out #Magogo's staple sweet - Mentos. Definitely seems as if the Mentos makes the kilometres disappear faster. 

Managed our lunch stop and grocery pickup in Makhadu - at a very large shopping centre. And this really highlights the contrasts we have seen. This was a massive mall - with every conceivable type of shop- all sparkly and new and dripping with the brand names in clothing and shoes. The ladies dropped into the Chemist for a wander around and its stocklist rivalled our Chemist Warehouse at home. Loads of people here, including minibus after minibus loads of perfectly uniformed secondary school students.

Nothing like an ostrich pie in the car park.

@Louis was on food patrol, stocking up for meals for the next two days, the ladies were in charge of water and wine and @Mac and @Steve were on #Magogo guard duty in the carpark. Not sure what their plan was - but with the aid of the prolific presence of shop security they had it covered. We are now travelling with the trailer and some of the luggage tied to the roof. Doesn't hurt to be cautious and our two unassuming security guards kept it all safe.

Ostrich pies and sandwiches (yes, that is right - red meat Ostrich pie) washed down with fresh squeezed orange juice hit the spot perfectly. @Louis always has fruit on board, and manages to produce ginger nut biscuits (very tasty) and the crew have what seems like a Mary Poppins bag full of Mentos and chippies. We travel all right.

B. After lunch rejoined the main highway (actually 4 500 km road that stretches from Capetown to Cairo) and took a very scenic route through the pass taken by the Voortrekkers. @Louis includes lots of information on the history of the country - blending stories of tribal history and interweaving it with the influence of white settlement.

Joined the convey of trucks - travelling in one direction carrying copper and then explosives and fertiliser on the way back. Passed an enormous truck laden with toilet paper heading to Zimbabwe - apparently there is a shortage there and it is very expensive.

Interesting stories of crime on this route around people smuggling and thus a reluctance to stop the vehicle for anyone - even cars with a flashing light and uniformed occupants. Apparently, many vehicles are part of a scam to "pose" as police officers to steal your vehicle.

Wonderful landscape and similar views from our back braai area.

Arrived at Mapungubwe Park at 4 pm and were united with @Marg and @Tom. What a journey it had been for them - we were all very excited to see and meet them - there were smiles all round and we were definitely up to making the "rotation" work comfortably for our new crew members.

C. Indemnity forms signed and checked-in we rolled about 20 metres forward to the gate and darn of all darns, the gate entrance team wanted to check inside our trailer. Poor @Louis - what can you do other than comply - he had to add another little round of tasks to his already hectic day - he had to get out and unlock the trailer for the cursory glance that constituted the inspection (the trailer is seriously padlocked and secure.)

We entered the park and @Louis reminded us it was a modern game park, with unfenced accommodation and was home to four of the Big5. Stay inside after dark and have your wits about you.

It was only an 11 km dirt road drive but as soon as we were in the gate we spotted our old, familiar friends the zebra and impala and got a genuine thrill as @Marg let out her little gasp of excitement for their first sighting of the giraffe and they were almost speechless at their first "up close" view of the elephant. Totally reflected to perfection our excitement of just a few days ago.

Lots to learn tomorrow because this sandstone, rocky vista is just like a moonscape. Dark red mounds with weather cracked surfaces and impressive silhouetted and stately baobab trees dominated the view. A sharp contrast to our highway drive of today.

C. Unloaded and moving as a group we dispersed to take up our first "two nights in a row" in the same residence in our dual rondavals. Yep, two of them joined together to create a "home." @Roz and @Gill might need to access the floor plans so they don't get lost as solo occupants.

Bigger than our house - outdoor shower was the bomb!

Spent the afternoon time at our disposal to unpack and repack the bags and sort the washing before being escorted to dinner. I'm not sure there wasn't a bench surface we didn't use - was such a luxury.

@Mac and @Del had 10 minutes of braai duty as @Louis completed the pick-ups from the lower accommodation (not confident to walk in these areas after dark - too many wild things) and then it was laughs and stories, great food and drink under the South African starry night with good company.

Braai duty

Very keen to put my head on the pillow tonight for some sleep but was a little haunted and daunted by the thought of @Gill's promise to scurry around taking pics of the crew in their outdoor shower. That's more of a worry than the possibility of the Big5 peering in our windows.

Plenty of room for the crew

Honey badger claw marks on doorway

Accommodation: Leokwe Rest Camp: This is a house! Two high ceilinged rondavals featuring kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, OUTDOOR SHOWER and expansive balcony complete with outdoor furniture and braai. Tiled floors, wood finishes, gold curtain holders, TV (watched the Royal Ascot), so much bench and storage space and plenty of seating (lounge sofa, dining table and chairs)

What's on the menu: Bushman's breakfast of cereals, yoghurt and fruit (pawpaw and pineapple very special), toast and condiments and even avo this morning, juice and hot beverages. 

Lunch to go was Ostrich pies, sandwiches and orange juice with a fruit chaser. 

The braai was the focal point for dinner- beef skewers, farmer's sausage and biltong rolls (@Mac digging into the carnivore delights with relish) accompanied by massive Greek salad (my fav, I had seconds.) And in his spare time, @Louis managed to whip up a lemon cheesecake for dessert! Genius.

Steps: 3 045 big travel day

Weather: crisp morning, pleasant daytime temps but smog shrouded the sky for the majority of the day.

Transport: last day of travel with 6 in the crew - joined late afternoon by @Marg and @Tom. Departure 8 am Arrival 4 pm 300 kms 

Wildlife Spotting:

Baboon: large and fast - just ask @Del

Zebra

Impala

Wart hog

Brown snake eagle: beautiful yellow eye hard scales on legs to stop snake bite; large head - perched on dead trees so they are not impeded or injured on take-off

Monkey: a camp site staple

Squirrel:

Cape Vulture: 

Elephant: they cover in mud and when it dries, rub themselves against tree to remove ticks and other insects; breeding herd with playful babies;

Giraffe: were so close able to check out the neck to see if we could track the lump of chewed food travelling to the stomach ... maybe next time 

White backed vulture: endangered, single egg, 6 to 8 months fledglings, no feathers on head to enable them to stick head in carcass, recorded as soaring to 36 000 feet, can gulp 2 kgs of meat in single go to avoid predators, undertakers of the bush - provide an essential link in the ecosystem, poachers use them as guide to dead animals, incredible eyesight - can detect if chest is moving, use thermals to fly; attacked by poachers, witch doctors, vulnerable to power lines and wind turbines

Sycamore Fig tree: yellow timber - fig has wasp inside to pollinate; helps for stomach complaints

Jackal berry: very sweet berries eaten by lots of animals including the jackal; timber used for mokoro boat

Wildebeest:

Oryx: our first sighting 

Eland: first sighting, largest antelope in Africa

Google Maps - Punda Maria - LeokweRest Camp